^, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


.«* 


r/. 


^ 


4^0 


1.0 


1.1 


S   lis    12.0 


IIU 

L25  iU  ||.6 


^'  *> 


^ 


Fhotographk: 

DClfiOCoS 

QsporatiGn 


nwHtiwiNinnT 

IH|inil,N.T.  l4iM 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Inttltuta  for  HIttorlcal  MIcroraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  miororaproduotlont  hiatorlquat 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notes  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


The 
tol 


Tha  Instltuta  hat  attemptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  avallabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  be  bibllographically  unlqua, 
wKlch  may  altar  any  of  the  imagea  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checiced  below. 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I   Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagie  ^ 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurAe  et/ou  peliiculie 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gAographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleje  ou  noirei 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  iilustrationa  en  couleur 


D 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Rail*  avac  d'autree  dooumenta 

Tight  binding  may  cauae  shadowa  or  diatortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  lung  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leavee  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  poaaible,  theae 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  oertalnee  pagea  blanohea  aJout4ea 
lore  d'une  restauration  apparaiaaent  dana  le  texte. 
mala,  lorsque  oela  itait  possible,  oee  pagea  n'ont 
pas  At*  f  limAes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentairae  supplAmantalraa: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  malileur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  *t*  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  d*talls 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut>*tre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographiquaa  qui  pauvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m*thode  normale  de  fllmage 
sont  indiquis  cl-dessous. 


D 
D 
D 
Q 
D 
0 
D 
D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pagee/ 
Pagea  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pagea  andommagias 

Pagea  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pagee  reataurAea  et/ou  pellicuMea 

Pagea  diacoiourad,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pagee  dAcolorAes,  tacheties  ou  pIquAea 

Pagee  detached/ 
Pages  dAtachAes 

Showthrough/ 
Tranaparenoe 

Quality  of  print  variea/ 
QualitA  InAgale  de  I'Impreaslon 

includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  matAriel  aupplAmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Adhion  diaponibia 

Pagee  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  rafllmed  to 
enaure  the  beat  possibla  image/ 
Lee  pagea  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obaourciaa  par  un  fauillet  d'errata,  une  palura, 
etc.,  ont  AtA  fllmAaa  A  nouveau  da  fapon  A 
obtanir  la  malllaure  image  poaaible. 


Th« 
poi 
ofi 
filn 


Ori 
bei 
thi 
slo 
oth 
fin 
slo 
or  I 


Th( 
shi 
Tl^ 
wh 

Ml 

dif 
•n\ 
bei 
rig 
rec 
mi 


This  item  is  filmed  at  tha  reduction  ratio  ohackad  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  fllmA  au  taux  da  rAduotlon  indlquA  oi*daeaous. 

10X  14X  HX  22X 


MX 


aox 


lax 


itx 


aox 


a«x 


The  copy  filmed  her*  hat  bean  reproduced  thank* 
to  the  generoaity  of: 

BIbliothAque  nationala  du  Quebec 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grice  A  la 
gAntrotitA  de: 

BIbliothdque  nationala  du  Qu6bec 


The  image*  appeering  here  ere  the  beat  quelity 
po**lbl*  con*id*ring  th*  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  *p*clf icatlona. 


La*  Image*  *uivante*  ont  6t6  roproduit**  avec  la 
plu*  grand  soin,  compt*  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  fiimA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  le*  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 


Original  coplaa  In  printed  peper  covera  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  end  ending  on 
the  leat  page  with  a  printed  or  llluatratad  imprea- 
*lon,  or  th*  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  orlginei  copie*  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
f ir*t  pege  with  e  printed  or  liluetreted  Impre*- 
•ion,  and  ending  on  the  leat  pege  with  e  printed 
or  liluetreted  lmpre**lon. 


Th*  leat  recorded  freme  on  each  microfiche 
ahail  contain  the  aymboi  — ►  (moening  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  eymbol  V  (moening  "END"), 
whlchevei  eppliee. 


Le*  *x*mpielre*  origlnaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
pepier  eat  Imprimte  sent  filmte  an  commonpant 
par  le  premier  plot  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impre**lon  ou  d'iiluttration,  soit  par  le  second 
plet,  selon  le  ces.  Tous  le*  eutres  exemplaires 
orlgineux  sent  film**  *n  commonpent  per  la 
premiere  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impre**lon  ou  d'iliu*tration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  de*  *ymbol**  *ulvant*  apparattra  *ur  la 
derniire  imege  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
ces:  I*  *ymbol*  -^  *ignlfi*  "A  8UIVRE",  I* 
*ymbol*  ▼  *ignlfl*  "FIN". 


Mepe,  pletes,  cherts,  etc.,  mey  be  filmed  et 
different  reduction  retios.  Those  too  ierge  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  expoeur*  ar*  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hend  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  e*  meny  freme*  e* 
r*quir*d.  Th*  following  diagrem*  iiiuatrate  the 
method: 


Le*  cart**,  planch**,  tabl*aux,  etc.,  peuvent  itre 
filmA*  A  d**  teux  de  rMuction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grend  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA.  11  est  film*  A  pertir 
de  I'engle  supirieur  geuche,  de  gauch*  h  droite, 
et  de  heut  en  be*,  *n  pr*n*nt  I*  nombr* 
d'lm*g**  nAccssair*.  Le*  diegramm**  auivant* 
illu*tr*nt  la  mithode. 


1 

2 

3 

12  3 

4  8  3 


\L 


L 


/  //  /■■""' 


yy^.f-y  "ov 


H 


I 


^*.r, 


MAP    OF    THE    LAKES    AND    RIVERS 


/  \ 


h   !'•■ 


ILLUSTRATKD  Od 


BURirS  SEVEN   MILE  MIRKOll. 


345t  W 


^~#*„ 


'.W% 


a 


DESCRIPTIVE  AND  HISTORICAL 


VIEW 


OF 


BURR'S  MOVING  MIRROR 


OF  THE 


LAKES,  THE  NIAGARA,  ST.  LAWRENCE, 
AND  SAGUENAY  RIVERS, 


EMBRACING 


THE    ENTIRE    RANGE  OF   BORDER    SCENERY 


OF  THE 


UNITED  STATES  AND  CANADIAN  SHORES, 


I'RUM 


LAKE  ERIE  TO  THE  ATLANTIC. 


«   •  •  • 


-i — .    H  .    '  t  -T—. 


BOSTON: 

DUTTON    Jt    WENT  WORTH,    PRINTERS. 
1860. 


'.      • » 


B.  Q.  R. 


s 


S--;v:rf«^...i^4ii 


^^r^k. 


>   \* 


# 


,■;,»  ^' 


EEMARKS. 


The  Proprietor  assures  the  public  that  the  painting  which 
has  been  aptly  denominated  the  "  Mammoth  Moving  Mirror," 
is  a  true  and  faithful  portraiture  of  the  scenery  which  it  pro- 
fesses to  represent,  every  object,  from  the  commencement  of  the 
pictorial  journey  to  its  close,  having  been  carefully  drawn  and 
colored  on  the  spot.  In  this  respect  it  differs  from  numerous 
deceptions,  misnamed  Panoramas,  which  have  been  got  up 
with  trifling  labor  from  old  prints  and  drawings,  so  bunglingly 
copied  and  patched  together  as  to  outrage  truth  and  nature, 
and  present  scenery  which  never  did  and  never  could  exist. 
These  miserable  abortions,  rebellious  alike  to  the  laws  of  gravi- 
tation, perspective,  and  good  taste,  have  so  much  disgusted  the 
public,  that  it  is  necessary  for  a  true  painting  to  present  some 
sort  of  credentials  before  it  can  gain  admittance  to  good  society. 

The  public  may  rely  on  the  accuracy  of  the  views  portrayed 
on  this  almost  endless  Painting.  They  were  not  taken  on  a 
flying  steamboat  trip.  The  Proprietor,  and  that  celebrated 
artist,  Mr.  E.  P.  Barnes  of  New  York  city,  walked  the  whole 

DISTANCE  from  LaKE  ErIE  ALONG  THE  BANKS  OF  Th':   '\lAGARA 

TO  Lake  Ontario,  making  full  drawings  of  (he  entire  i  ange  of 
scenery,  encountering  great  peril  in  descending  and  drawing 
each  other  up  the  dizzy  cliffs  which  overhung  the  Great  Whirl- 
pool Sii  a  height  of  several  hundred  feet, 

Arriving  at  Lake  Ontario,  the  Proprietor  fitted  up  a  vessel, 
and  with  pilot,  crew,  and  all  necessary  conveniences  for  the 
Artists,  proceeded  with  the  drawings  as  far  as  Quebec,  where  a 
second  vessel  was  chartered  which  arrived  at  the  head  of  the 
Saguenay  late  in  autumn — ending  the  voyage  amid  the  snow 
and  ice  which  abound  in  that  region.  Thus,  two  thirds  of  a 
year  were  consumed  in  making  the  preliminary  drawings. 

Numerous  articles  appeared  in  the  Canadian  Press  during  the 
time  the  Proprietor  was  engaged  in  making  his  drawings,  one 


5663;: 


6 


y 


of  which,  from  the  Quebec  Mercury,  July  10,  1848,  is  here 
copied : — 

"  We  are  highly  gratified  in  being  able  to  inform  the  citizens 
of  Quebec  and  the  public  generally,  that  Mr.  W.  Burr,  from  the 
city  of  New  York,  (accompanied  by  superior  artists,)  has,  after 
a  long  and  dangerous  passage  of  several  months  through  the 
great  Western  Lakes,  Niagara  River,  Lakes  Ontario  and  St. 
Lawrence,  arrived  in  this  city.  They  have  made  drawings  and 
sketches  through  the  whole  route,  and  have  chartered  a  schoon- 
er, fitted  her  out  with  stores  and  suitable  guides,  and  are  con- 
tinuing their  way  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Saguenay ;  will 
ascend  that  wild,  picturesque  and  noble  river,  and  from  thence 
continue  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Gulf  and  Atlantic,  which 
will  complete  their  whole  line  of  sketches,  forming  one  continu- 
ous view,  the  whole  distance  making  nearly  2,000  miles.  These 
sketches  are  being  made  for  the  purpose  of  completing  a  Grand 
Ma^nmoth  Painting,  which  is  intended  to  exceed  in  extent,  style, 
execution.  Sec.,  anything  of  the  kind  ever  exhibited  in  America. 
This  is  precisely  what  is  wanted  to  bring  Canadian  scenery  into 
notice.  Tourists  are  not  generally  aware  of  the  many  scenic 
attractions  Canada  presents,  and,  consequently,  (we  presume) 
visit  and  revisit  hackneyed  localities /au/e  de  mieux.  We  wish 
Mr.  Burr  every  success,  and  en  avant  courier  of  his  Painting, 
can  assure  our  friends  of  the  States,  that  a  treat  is  in  store  for 
them." 


..-4 


% 


m 


^A 


^W^' 


■j^^ 


48,  is  here 


he  citizens 
r,  from  the 
)  has,  after 
irough  the 
•io  and  St. 
I  wings  and 
I  a  schoon- 
1  are  con- 
lenay;  will 
om  thence 
[itic,  which 
le  continu- 
es.   These 
ig  a  Grand 
;tent,  style, 
1  America. 
:enery  into 
jny  scenic 
presume) 
We  wish 
Painting, 
store  for 


PICTORIAL   TOUH. 


;i5 


it 


The  scenery  selected  for  this  Mirror  commences  on  Lake 
Erie  and  includes  the  Niagara  River  with  its  stupendous  cata- 
ract. Lake  Ontario,  the  mighty  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  dark, 
wild,  and  mysterious  Saguenay.  In  addition  to  the  attractions 
which  the  bold  and  romantic  scenery  on  this  route  possesses  for 
the  lover  of  the  beautiful  and  picturesque,  the  painting  exhibits 
the  most  interesting  portion  of  the  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  Canada,  including  the  entire  range  of  scenery  on 
both  shores,  from  Lake  Erie  to  the  Gulf  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
near  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  teems  throughout  with  historical 
associations  of  the  highest  interest.  The  extent  of  the  country 
enbraced  in  this  painting  being  so  vast,  and  being  truly  a 
terra  iticognita  to  many  of  our  readers,  a  brief  geographical 
description  of  the  great  Lakes,  forming  the  source  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  a  slight  sketch  of  the  United  Provinces  of  Upper 
and  Lower  Canada,  will  not  be  deemed  inappropriate.,  before 
describing  seriatim  the  subjects  as  they  appear  on  the  Canvas. 

THE     LAKES. 

The  most  striking  peculiarity  of  this  part  of  North  America 
is  its  immense  lakes,  which,  in  respect  to  depth  and  extent  of 
surface,  have  no  equals  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  Lake  Superior 
is  the  largest  of  these  inland  seas,  and,  without  exception,  the 
most  extensive  ucdy  of  fresh  water  in  the  world  ;  being  about 
1,500  miles  in  circumference.  In  shape  it  is  an  irregular  cres- 
cent, and  its  length  is  nearly  400  miles.  Its  surface  is  elevated 
625  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  its  mean  depth  is  900 
feet.  More  than  220  rivers  and  streams  pour  into  it  their  waters 
from  the  surrounding  mountains. 

Lake  Huron,  the  second  in  magnitude  of  this  great  chain  of 
lakes,  receives  the  surplus  water  of  Lake  Superior  by  St.  Mary's 


Sx- 


■••tft. 


Channel.  Its  circumference  is  supposed  to  be  nearly  1,000 
miles,  and  the  depth  is  estimated  at  from  900  to  1,000  feet. 
Near  its  northwestern  point  a  narrow  strait  connects  it  with 
Lake  Michigan,  which  is  entirely  included  in  the  United  States. 
By  Lake  St.  Clair  and  the  Detroit  River,  Lake  Huron  commu- 
nicates with  Lake  Erie,  whose  circumference  is  about  600 
miles.  This,  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  ranks  as  the  most 
important  of  the  whole  chain  of  lakes ;  possessing  the  most  ex- 
tensive channels  of  inland  communication  in  the  v.orld.  By 
means  of  the  Erie  Canal  it  connects  with  the  Hudson  River  and 
the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  and  by  the  Ohio  Canal,  with  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi  Rivers  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  Welland 
Canal,  also,  on  the  Canadian  side,  forms  a  ship  channel  for  ves- 
sels to  pass  through  to  Lake  Ontario,  and  thence  by  the  River 
St.  Lawrence  to  the  ocean. 

CANADA. 

This  province  derives  its  name  from  the  Iroquois  word  Kan- 
ata,  which  signifies  a  village  or  collection  of  huts.  It  extends  from 
Gaspe,  in  the  east,  to  Sandwich,  at  the  end  of  Lake  Erie,  in  the 
west.  On  the  west,  its  shores  are  washed  by  Lake  Huron  ;  on 
the  south-east,  by  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and  by  the  St. 
Lawrence  as  far  as  the  boundary  of  the  45th  parallel  of  latitude. 
From  thence  the  great  River  St.  Lawrence  flows  through  the 
centre  of  the  province,  and  contributes  as  a  votive  offering  to 
ihe  ocean,  half  the  fresh  ivaler  on  the  surface  of  the  globe! 

The  above  brief  description  will,  it  is  presumed,  be  sufficient 
to  convey  to  the  untravelled  spectator  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
great  inland  seas  of  America,  which  form  the  source  of  the 
mighty  river  whose  shores  this  moving  mirror  illustrates.  We 
beg  leave  to  call  the  attention  of  those  who  are  about  to  accom- 
pany us  through  these  romantic  regions,  to  some  historical  and 
statistical  particulars  connected  with  the  various  spots  depicted, 
which  will  add  much  to  the  interest  of  the  pictorial  journey. 


THE    CITY    OF    BUFFALO 

Is  beautifully  situated  at  the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Erie  and 
near  the  entrance  of  the  Niagara  River.  The  harbor  is  formed 
by  a  creek,  which  crosses  the  southern  portion  of  the  city  and  is 


ft 

1 


•     P 


A 


iJjiW* 


A 


vfi 


!  nearly  1,000 
to  1,000  feet, 
nects  it  with 
United  States, 
furon  commn- 
is  about  600 
fs  as  the  most 
J  the  most  ex- 
e  V.  orld.  By- 
son  River  and 
the  Ohio  and 
rhe  Welland 
annel  for  ves- 
by  the  River 


is  word  Kaii- 
extends  from 
e  Erie,  in  the 
e  Huron ;  on 
d  by  the  St. 
si  of  latitude. 
!  through  the 
re  offering  to 

globe  ! 
sufficient 

idea  of  the 
)urce  of  the 

trates.  We 
to  accom- 
istorical  and 
)ts  depicted, 

onrney. 


ce  Erie  and 
>r  is  formed 
city  and  is 


U 


separated  from  the  lake  by  a  peninsula.  A  breakwater  1,500 
feet  in  length  projects  into  the  lake,  at  the  extremity  of  which  is 
situated  a  substantial  lighthouse. 

Sixty  years  ago,  the  Seneca  nation  owned  the  entire  western 
portion  of  the  State  of  New  York,  and  the  right  of  preemption 
belonged  to  the  State  of  Massachusetts.  Oliver  Phelps  pur- 
chased this  right  in  17S7,  and  in  June,  ITSS,  he  met  the  Senecas 
at  Buffalo,  and  concluded  a  treaty,  by  which  they  conveyed  to 
him  the  territory  lying  between  the  preemption  line  and  the 
Genesee  River,  and  a  strip  of  land  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river, 
twelve  miles  wide  and  about  twenty  miles  in  depth  from  its 
mouth.  This  acquisition  is  now  known  as  Phelps's  and  Gor- 
ham's  purchase.  At  this  time  we  have  no  record  of  any  white 
man  inhabiting  this  region.  La  Rochefaucold  Liancourt,  a 
French  nobleman,  visited  this  place,  then  known  as  Lake  Erie, 
in  1795,  and  speaks  of  an  inn,  where  he  was  obliged  to  sleep 
on  the  floor  in  his  clothes,  and  in  which  there  was  neither  "fur- 
niture, refreshment,  rum,  candles,  or  milk."  The  village  rapidly 
rose  into  consequence  a  short  time  after  tliis,  when  it  was  sud- 
denly doomed  to  destruction.  On  30ih  December,  IS  13,  the 
British,  to  avenge  the  burning  of  Kingston,  crossed  the  river  at 
Black  Rock,  and  took  and  biu-nt  it,  in  spite  of  the  gallant  resist- 
ance offered  by  the  inhabitants.  So  complete  was  the  destruc- 
tion that  only  two  dwellings  were  left  unconsumed.  The 
rebuilding  of  the  place  was  not  commenced  until  1SI5.  The 
population,  in  1811,  was  estimated  at  500  ;  in  February,  1848, 
it  was  carefully  enumerated,  and  found  to  be  over  10,000,  so 
that  in  1S50  it  will  probably  contain  50,000  souls.  The  act 
incorporating  the  city  of  Buffalo  was  passed  April  20th,  1832; 
but  it  may  date  its  great  and  increasing  prosperity  from  the 
completion  of  the  Erie  Canal  in  1825.  Though  a  brief  space 
has  elapsed  since  the  first  settlement  took  place,  its  commerce 
and  consequent  opulence  have  increased  to  such  a  degree  that 
it  may  be  confidently  believed  that  Buffalo  is  destined  to  be  one 
of  the  greatest  cities  of  the  Union.  She  well  merits  the  appel- 
lation of  the  "  Queen  City  of  the  Lakes.^'' 

Having  completed  our  view  of  Buffalo,  we  must  take  leave  of 

the  beautiful  lake,  and  enter  the  renowned  Niagara  River,  which 

is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie ;  and  instead  of  sailing  down  the  river 

and  viewing  one  shore  only,  we  will  laud  at  Fort  Erie  on  the 

3 


li 


,1 


1 


10 


»<• 


Canadian  sliore,  and  walk  along  the  banks  the  whole  length  of 
the  river,  thirty-three  miles,  which  will  bring  us  to  Lake  On- 
tario. By  adopting  this  metliod,  we  gain  the  important  point  of 
enabling  the  spectator  to  view  both  the  American  and  Canadian 
shores,  with  the  beautiful  river  flowing  between  them,  and  all 
embraced  in  one  view.  It  is  true,  the  walk  will  be  somewhat 
lengthy,  and  in  many  places  we  shall  be  compelled  to  encounter 
severe  fatigue  and  imminent  danger,  sometimes  descending,  at 
other  times  climbing,  the  rugged  sides  of  clilfs  from  two  to  five 
hundred  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  clinging  to  shrubs 
or  twigs,  and  assisting  each  other  from  spots  where  the  foot 
will  hardly  find  a  resting  place.  Remember,  while  performing 
these  feats,  we  are  often  hanging  over  the  wild  and  roaring 
rapids;  but  there  is  no  other  way  of  viewing  the  Niagara  River 
to  advantage,  for  the  reader  must  bear  in  mind  that  no  steam- 
boat, or  other  sailing  craft,  can  or  dare  venture  to  descend  the 
angry  stream  further  than  Chippewa  landing,  which  is  only 
twenty  miles  from  Buffalo.  We  shall  of  course  suffer  the  pen- 
alties of  a  difficult  enterprise,  but  even  if  we  had  come  all  the 
way  from  Europe  to  view  the  natural  phenomena  of  this  extra- 
ordinary river,  the  novelty  and  grandeur  would  be  sufficient 
compensation  for  the  voyage. 

FORT    ERIE  — 

Now  a  mass  of  ruins — at  the  foot  of  the  lake  and  immediately 
opposite  to  Buffalo,  now  comes  in  full  view.  It  was  captured 
by  the  Americans,  July  3d,  181 1.  A  very  strong  fortification 
belonging  to  the  United  States,  on  a  rising  ground,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  north  of  the  city  of  Buffalo,  and  half  way  to 
Black  Rock,  is  now  before  the  eye,  at  which  place  there  is  an 
extensive  stone  pier  or  dam,  affording  immense  water  power, 
and,  at  the  same  time,  serving  as  a  feeder  to  the  Erie  Canal.  A 
steam  ferry-boat  runs  from  Black  Rock  to  the  village  of  Water- 
loo, on  the  opposite  shore  of  Canada.  The  Eric  Canal,  crowded 
with  boats  containing  the  rich  produce  of  the  western  prairies, 
runs  parallel  with,  and  at  a  short  distance  from,  the  banks  of 
the  Niagara  River.  It  is  in  view  from  Buffalo  to  Tonawanda, 
nineteen  miles,  and  forms  a  pleasing  and  animated  feature  in 
the  landscape,  especially  as  its  surface  is  six  feet  higher  than 
the  river,  caused  by  the  dam  at  Black  Rock. 


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I 


11 


THE    NIAGARA    RIVER, 

Thirty-three  miles  long,  is,  at  Fort  Erie,  about  a  mile  wide. 
It  passes  through  a  country  of  the  most  fertile,  and  at  the 
same  time  of  the  wildest  and  most  romantic  character,  and 
in  its  short  and  rapid  course  presents  the  sublime  spectacle 
of  all  the  superabundant  waters  of  the  great  lakes  rushing  along 
its  narrow  channel  in  one  immense  body,  in  its  way  to  join 
the  ocean.  The  first  vessel  that  ever  navigated  the  inland 
seas  of  America,  was  built  by  La  Salle,  a  Frenchman,  in  1678, 
at  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek,  (supposed  to  be  the  Cayuga,) 
six  miles  above  the  Falls.  After  many  unsuccessful  attempts 
the  vessel,  which  was  of  sixty  tons  burden,  ascended  the  current 
into  Lake  Erie,  by  the  combined  aid  of  tow-lines  and  sails,  on 
7th  August,  1079.  They  sailed  through  a  lake  to  which  La 
Salle  gave  the  name  of  St.  Clair,  and  after  encountering  a  vio- 
lent storm  in  Lake  Huron,  they  passed  into  Lake  Michigan,  and 
landed  at  the  mouth  of  Green  Hay.  He  sent  back  the  vessel 
laden  with  rich  furs,  valued  at  00,000  livres,  in  charge  of  the 
pilot  and  five  men;  but  they  never  reached  the  Niagara,  and 
were  supposed  to  have  foundered  in  Lake  Huron.  The  sloop 
Detroit,  of  seventy  tons,  built  in  1790,  was  the  first  vessel 
bearing  the  American  flag  upon  Lake  Erie;  and,  in  1818,  the 
first  steamboat,  "  Walk  in  the  Water,"  was  built  at  black  Rock ; 
at  which  time  the  whole  number  of  vessels  on  the  upper  lakes 
consisted  of  thirty  sail. 

Descending  the  Niagara,  we  come  to  Grand'Island,  belonging 
to  the  United  States  ;  a  splendid  tract  of  land  covered  with  noble 
forest  trees.  The  white  oak  here  is  considered  to  be  of  superior 
(lualily  for  shipbuilding. 

C  H  I  P  P  E  W  A 

Is  twenty  miles  below  Hufl'alo  and  two  miles  above  the 
Falls ;  it  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek,  which  is  navigable 
about  eight  miles,  to  the  Welland  Canal.  Tins  village  is  noted 
for  the  sanguinary  battle  which  was  fought  on  5tli  July,  1814, 
on  the  plains,  a  sluut  distance  from  the  landing.  The  American 
forces  were  commanded  by  Major  General  Brown,  the  English 
by  Major  General  Uiall,  who  was  defeated  with  considerable 


»f 


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12 


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loss.  The  night  before  the  battle,  the  American  army  crossed 
Me  bridge,  and  encamped  by  the  shattered  old  house,  showti  in 
the  foreground  of  this  painting.  Almost  the  entire  ground 
where  this  desperate  and  bloody  battle  was  fought,  is  depicted 
on  the  canvas.  One  of  the  corner  posts  of  the  house  aforesaid 
was  carried  away  by  a  cannon  shot  fired  by  the  patriots  or 
sympathisers  while  in  possession  of  Navy  Island,  which  is  di- 
rectly opposite.  We  have  here  the  celebrated  Slater  House,  in 
which  a  man  was  killed  by  a  cannon  shot  fired  by  the  same 
force  whilst  lying  in  bed.  Many  shots  were  fired  through  this 
house  and  barn,  by  the  soi-disant patriots,  although  it  was  well 
known  that  a  quiet  and  respectable  family  occupied  it.  Also 
the  ruins  of  the  English  batteries  are  seen,  and  the  abutments  of 
the  bridge  which  crossed  the  Chippewa  Creek,  and  which  was 
destroyed  by  the  British,  in  1814,  to  prevent  the  Americans 
from  crossing.  A  railroad  extends  from  Chippewa  to  Queens- 
ton,  a  distance  of  ten  miles.  Steam  navigation  ends  at  Chip- 
pewa. 

NAVY   ISLAND, 

The  noted  fortress  of  the  patriots  in  the  late  insurrection  of 
1837-8,  lies  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Chippewa,  and  near 
Grand  Island,  but  is  inferior  to  the  latter  in  size  and  richness  of 
soil.  Below  this  and  at  Schlosser  landing  the  river  exi)ands  to 
more  than  two  miles  in  width,  but  suddenly  contracts  to  less 
than  a  mile. 

Here  the  Great  Rapids  commence,  the  current  increasing 
from  five  to  twenty  miles  per  hour.  Noted  as  the  Canadian  boat- 
men are  for  their  intrepidity,  they  dare  not  venture  farther  down. 
Mrs.  Jamieson,  in  her  pleasing  work  on  Canada,  iliu.s  graphi- 
cally describes  the  rapids.  "The  whole  mighty  river  comes 
rushing  over  the  brow  of  a  hill,  and,  as  you  look  up,  it  seems  as 
if  coming  down  to  overwhelm  you;  then  meeting  witlj  the  rocks 
as  it  pours  down  the  declivity,  it  boils  and  frets  like  the  breakers 
of  the  ocean.  Huge  mounds  of  water,  smooth,  transparent,  and 
gleaming  like  an  emerald,  rise  up  and  bound  over  some  impedi- 
ment, then  break  into  silver  foam,  which  leaps  into  the  air  in 
the  most  graceful  and  fantastic  forms." 

Hero  the  noise  of  the  Falls  is  distinctly  heard,  resembling  the 
itMir  of  the  seu  breaking  on  the  shore  ;  and  a  culunm  of  mist  is 


^1 


army  crossed 
?/*e,  shown  in 
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It,  is  depicted 
•use  aforesaid 
e  patriots  or 
which  is  di- 
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13 


seen  hovcrT  /er  the  rapid  stream  in  the  distance.  Below,  the 
river  bends  •  ihe  east,  and  is  divided  by  Iris  Island,  commonly 
called  Goat  Island,  leaving,  however,  by  far  the  greater  body  of 
water  on  the  Canadian  side.  This  island,  which  divides,  and 
perhaps  adds  to  the  beauty  and  sublimity  of  the  Falls,  is  three 
hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and  is  covered  with  noble  forest 
trees  and  a  luxuriant  vegetation. 

This  island  extends  to,  and  forms  part  of  the  precipice,  thus 
dividing  the  cataract  into  two  distinct  Falls.  Again,  the  smaller 
cascade  is  divided  by  Prospect  Island;  so  that  the  Cataract  of 
Niagara  consists  of  the  British,  or  Horse-Shoe  Fall,  between 
the  Canadian  shore  and  Iris  Island  ;  the  Central  Fall,  between 
Iris  Island  and  Prospect  Island  ;  and  the  American  Fall,  between 
Prospect  Island  and  the  American  shore.  The  width  of  the 
first  Fall  is  about  700  yards;  of  the  second,  20  yards;  and  of 
the  third,  330  yards.  And  the  whole  breadth  of  the  Cataract, 
including  Prospect  and  Iris  Islands,  is  rather  more  than  1,400 
yards  from  the  Canadian  to  the  American  side.  The  perpen- 
dicular descent  is,  at  different  points,  variously  estimated  from 
169  to  1G4  feet.  The  largest  portion  of  the  river  flows  in  an 
almost  unbroken  sheet  over  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall. 

Many  attempts  have  been  made,  in  prose  and  verse,  by  the 
most  talented  writers,  to  describe  the  Falls  of  Niagara ;  but 
none  of  them  have  succeeded  in  expressing  that  overwhelming 
sense  of  the  presence  of  Omnipotence  and  the  soul-subduing 
awe  which  oppresses  the  mind  of  the  contemplative  spectator. 
In  fact,  words  are  insuflicient  to  paint  this  great  and  wonderful 
work  of  the  Creator  of  all  things: — 

"  Here  speaks  the  voice  of  God!     Let  man  be  dumb, 
Nor  with  liis  vain  aspiring.^  hither  come ; 
Tiiat  voice  impels  tliesc  iiollow-sounding  floods, 
An<l  tike  a  presence  tills  the  distant  woods. 
Thcf^e  groaning  rocks  th'  Almighty's  Anger  piled, 
For  ages  here,  His  painted  bow  has  smiled  ; 
Markmg  the  changes  nnd  the  chance  of  time — 
Eternal— beautiful— serene— sublime  !" 

The  minds  of  all  who  behold  the  mighty  Cataract  for  the  first 
time  arc  agitated  by  a  variety  of  cotiflicting  emotions.  The 
sound  of  this  imnuMiso  volume  of  water  descending  from  a  vast 
height  causes  a   palpable  concussion  of  the  air;   the  ground 


h 


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iii 


14 


I. 


trembles  beneath  the  feet,  and  the  scene  conjures  up  strange 
phantoms  in  the  imagination.  Each  is  affected  according  to  his 
natural  temperament.  The  bold  and  ardent  youth  hears,  in  the 
voice  of  the  resistless  flood,  the  sounds  of  strife  and  battle — the 
shouts  of  the  victors  and  the  groans  of  the  dying.  Tiie  poet 
beholds  visions  of  unearthly  beauty  in  the  wreathing  mist,  and 
music,  sweet  as  the  harps  before  the  throne  of  the  Eternal, 
salutes  his  ear.  But  all  confess  a  feeling  of  awe  and  veneration 
such  as  is  sometimes  felt  whilst  sailing  at  night  upon  the  track- 
less ocean.  The  never-ceasing,  down-pouring  of  the  mighty 
flood,  absorbs  all  the  faculties  of  the  mind,  and  hours  pass  un- 
heeded whilst  we  stand  ruminating  over  its  mysteries.  The 
cloudy  column  rises  by  night  and  day;  the  covenant  rainbow 
on  its  glowing  brow  shines  ever  in  the  sun;  and  when  the 
moon's  unclouded  radiance  softens  all  the  scene,  still  gleams  the 
bow  of  promise  there,  lifting  our  thoughts  from  earth  to  heaven, 
and  waking  memories  full  of  sweet  harmonies  as  vesper  hymns 
from  some  white  convent  in  the  distant  hills ! 

In  plain  parlance,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  form  a  concep- 
tion of  the  volume  of  water  passing  by  the  Niagara  River  over 
the  Falls;  yet,  below  Montreal,  the  stream  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
which  is  a  continuation  of  Niagara,  is  twice  as  great  as  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Falls ;  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay 
the  volume  of  fresh  water,  which  the  great  river  of  Canada 
rolls  towards  the  sea,  is  perhaps  more  than  equal  to  the  aggre- 
gate of  all  the  rivers  of  the  Atlantic  coast,  from  the  Gulf  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  including  even  the  Missis- 
sippi, which  some  writers  have  gone  so  far  as  to  name  the 
"  Father  of  Rivers."  In  a  word,  the  whole  region  drained  by 
the  St.  Lawrence  is  one  of  great  lakes,  numberless  fountains, 
and  deep  and  rapid  rivers,  ?iever  exhausted  by  the  stin.  It  has 
been  estimated  by  Dr.  Dwight,  that  28,359  tons  of  water  are 
precipitated  over  the  Cataract  per  second. 

There  are  many  objects  of  interest  connected  with  the  Falls, 
which  can  be  merely  enumerated  in  this  pamphlet.  At  the  foot 
of  tho  Canadian  Fall  a  ledge  of  rock  leads  into  a  cavern  behind 
the  sheet  of  water,  called  the  "  Cavern  of  tho  Winds."  The 
darkness,  and  the  strong  wind  blowing  the  spray  over  the 
intruders,  render  its  exploration  a  difllcalt  adventure  for  weak 
nerves.    Tho  whole  region  about  the  Falls,  especially  below, 


I 


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15 


is  unique  and  full  of  points  of  history  and  wild  romance. 
In  the  immediate  neighborliood,  the  tc.irist  should  visit  Niagara 
Village,  on  the  American  shore,  the  •'  Burning  Springs,"  and 
Lundy's  Lane  Rattle  Ground,  on  the  Canadian  side.  That  par- 
ties visiting  the  Falls  may  have  the  means  of  viewing  them  in 
every  possible  maimer,  and  to  add  to  the  excitement  of  this 
already  exciting  spectacle,  a  small  steamboat,  named  the  "  Maid 
of  the  Mist,"  carries  a  living  freight  of  delighted,  and  we  may 
add,  foar-stricken  passengers  along  the  base  of  the  American 
and  Canadian  Falls,  to  be  drenched  with  the  spray  of  the  de- 
scending waters — a  shower-bath  on  a  gigantic  scale  !  Really,  as 
we  stand  on  the  Canadian  shore  and  look  down  a  chasm  of 
near  two  hundred  feet  upon  this  audacious  little  craft  loaded 
with  human  beings,  rolling  and  pitching  in  the  white-capped 
surges,  and  close  to  the  base  of  the  great  Cataract — at  one  mo- 
ment, completely  enveloped  in  clouds  of  mist — the  next,  break- 
ing into  view,  surrounded  by  playful  rainbows — we  wonder  at 
the  temerity  of  those  who  would  incur  such  risk  for  the  mere 
pleasure  of  enjoying  a  new  sensation. 

On  the  American  side,  and  just  above  the  Cataract,  is  the 
pretty  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  which  was  laid  out  in  1805  by 
.Tudge  I'orter,  who  is  the  principal  proprietor.  Here  the  Cata- 
ract House,  delightfully  situated  on  the  brink  of  the  rapids,  offers 
excellent  acconmiodaiion  for  travellers  whilst  sojourning  at  the 
Falls.  On  tlie  Canada  side,  the  City  of  the  Falls— and  Clifton 
Village,  a  salubrious  and  pleasant  retreat — offer  great  attrac- 
tions to  those  in  search  nf  health.  At  the  latter  place,  the  cele- 
brated and  elegant  "  Clifton  House,"  with  its  triple  colonnade, 
looms  up  in  the  foreground  ;  its  numerous  guests  enjoying  a  full 
view  of  the  splendid  Cataract  from  the  balconies.  The  road 
passing  in  front  of  this  hotel  leads  directly  to  the  battle-ground 
of  "  I.MuJy's  Lane."  This  battle  was  one  of  the  most  bloody 
contlicls  that  occurred  during  the  last  war.  The  gallant  (?en- 
eral  Scott,  who  has  lately  gathered  fresh  laurels  in  Mexico,  par- 
ticipated in  the  action.  Oeneral  Riall,  of  the  English  army,  was 
captured,  ajid  the  possession  of  the  battle-ground  was  stubbornly 
contested  mUil  near  midnight,  when  1,700  men  being  either 
killed  or  womided,  the  conflicting  armies,  as  if  by  miUual  con- 
sent, ceased  the  deadly  strife,  and  the  bloody  field  remained  in 
the  possession  of  the  dead  and  dying, 


ill 


--^*k 


16 


I  I'll 


THE  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE. 

We  now  approach  the  whirlpool  rapids,  across  whose  whirl* 
ing  vortex  is  thrown  a  suspension  bridge,  which  is  now  in  view. 
Its  wires — the  first  having  been  thrown  across  by  means  of  a 
kite — bind  the  two  nations  together,  as  it  were ;  for  they  are 
here  the  only  means  of  communication  with  the  opposite  shore 
that  ingenuity  could  possibly  devise.     The  cliffs  upon  which 
the  towers  rest  are  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  above  the  river, 
and  the  towers  arc  fifty-two  feet  above  the  cliffs.     The  bridge 
is  upheld  by  nine  cables— four  on  the  north,  and  five  on  the 
south  side — having  a  sag  of  fifty  feet,  and  can  sustain  a  weight 
of  seventy  tons.     The  bridge  is  only  a  mile  and  a  half  be- 
low  the   Falls.     Mr.  Charles  Ellet  was  the  engineer,  and  is 
one  of  the  proprietors.     When  the  drawings  were  made,  only 
one  wire  was  thrown  across  the  chasm,  arid  the  proprietor  of 
the  Mirror  crossed  in  a  car,  accompanied  by  the  engineer,  from 
the  Canadian  to  the  American  shore,  and  returned, — the  car 
being  suspended  two  hundred  and  thirty-four  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  river.     The  length  of  the  span  is  seven  hundred 
and  sixty-two  feet.     The  great  whirlpool  beneath,  and  the  sin* 
gle  wire  above,  made  the  passage  very  exciting.     The  river  is 
here  pent  up  between  lofty  and  perpendicular  cliffs;  the  current, 
impatient  of  restraint,  rushes   between   them  with   lightning 
speed,  until,  suddenly  arrested  in  its  headlong  career  by  a  bend 
in  the  precipitous  embankment,  it  is  forced  completely  across 
the  mouth  of  the  outlet;  again  and  again  it  is  drawn  from  its 
course  and  carried  round,   until,   with   frightful  efforts,   it  at 
length  bursts  out  from  the  foundations  of  its  prison-house,  and 
dashes  forth,  with  loud  and  exulting  cries,  to  mingle  ils  waters 
with  Lake  Ontario.     Trunks  of  trees,  timbers,  and  sometimes 
dead  bodies  of  human  beings  and  animals,  are  drawn  into  its 
vortex,  and  whirl  round  in  the  infernal  cauldron  in  a  terrible 
and  mystic  dance,  until  chafed,  broken  up,  and  decomposed  by 
the  action  of  the  waters,  they  finally  disappear.     Half  a  mile 
farther  down  the  stream,  a  dark  chasm  in  the  precipitous  bank 
meets  our  view.    This  is  known  as  the  "Devil's  HolcJ'    A 
small  stream,  called  the  Bloody  Run,  empties  into  this  fearful 
gulf    It  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of  a  dreadful  tragedy.     In 
1750,  during  the  war  with  the  French,  a  supply  of  provisions 
and  ammunition  was  sent  from  Fort  Niagara  to  Fort  Schlosser, 


(A 

a. 


i 


w 


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i 


whose  whirl* 
"owin  view. 

means  of  a 
or  they  are 
'Posite  shore 
"pon  which 
3  the  river, 
The  bridge 
ive  on  the 
i"  a  weight 
a  JiaJf  be- 
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p  river  is 

current, 
igh 
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its 


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and 
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to  its 

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bank 
A 
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In 
ions 
ser, 


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I 


17 


escorted  by  one  hundred  British  soldiers.     As  no  suspicion  was 
Entertained  of  any  hostile  force  being  in  the  vicinity,  the  men 
marched  listlessly  and  securely  by  the  side  of  the  ponderous 
wagons.     On  arriving  at  the  "  Devil's  Hole,"  a  tremendous 
volley  was  suddenly  poured  into  them,  and  the  terrific  yells  of 
several  hundred  Seneca  Indians,  allies  of  the  French,  drowned 
even  the  roar  of  Niagara.     The  knife,  rifle  and  tomahawk  did 
their  work  on  the  panic-stricken  escort  before  they  had  time  to 
defend  themselves.  The  red  warriors  finished  by  throwing  over 
the  bank,  horse?,  wagons,  and  dying  soldiers.    Only  two  of  the 
British  party  escaped.     The  little  stream  ran  crimson  with  hu- 
man gore,  and  thus  obtained  its  cognomen.     About  two  miles 
below  this,  Hewletti's  Cellar,  a  most  singular  natural  excavation 
in  the  rock,  fifteen  feet  below  the  top  of  the  bank,  is  worthy  of 
examination.     The  country  now  exhibits  a  series  of  abrupt  and 
elevated  ridges,  called  Queenston  Heights,  the  banks  on  both 
sides  reaching  an  altitude  of  seven  hundred  feet,  supposed  to 
have  been  the  site  of  the  Falls  in  former  ages.     This  place  is 
also  celebrated  as  being  the  scene  of  a  deadly  contest  between 
the  American  and  British  forces,  October  13,  1812.     The  Amer- 
icans were  commanded  by  General  Solomon  Van  Rensselaer, 
and  both  the  troops  and  their  commander  distinguished  them- 
selves by  their  bravery,  though  finally  overpowered  by  numbers. 
General  Brocf:,  the  British  commander,  was  killed  while  lead- 
ing on  his  men.     A  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  this 
brave  soldier,  who  was  respected  even  by  his  foes,  stands  on  a 
lofty  and  commanding  situation.     It  is  now,  however,  shattered 
and  defaced.     In  April,  1840,  some  pitiful  scoundrel  attempted 
to  destroy  it  with  gunpowder,  and  partially  succeeded.     This 
monument,  and  the  tree  under  which  General  Brock  breathed 
his  last,  are  prominent  objects  in  this  picture.     At  the  foot  of 
the  height  is  the  romantic  village  of  Queenston,  where  the  Ni- 
agara again  becomes  navigable.     On  th«  opposite  or  American 
shore  is  Lewiston.   The  shores  now  suddenly  descend  to  nearly 
the  level  of  the  river,  and  a  verdant  plain  extends  to  Lake  On- 
tario.    Still  fnrther  down,  you  approach  the  town  of  Ni.\gara. 
It  contains  many  fine  buildings,  and  has  a  population  of  about 
four  thousand  persons.     Here  is  a  large  dock-yard,  with  marine 
railway  and  foundry,  where  have  been  built  most  of  the  steam- 
ers now  navigating  Lake  Ontario.   It  was  formerly  called  New- 
3 


n 


ft* 


ii 


;  ;! 


16 


ark,  and  was  burnt  by  the  American  forces  under  General 
McClure,  in  IS  13.  Foi't  Geqrge  is  seen  first  above  the  town, 
dismantled  and  in  ruins.  Fort  Massasiniga  guards  the  outlet 
of  the  river,  on  the  Canadian  side ;  and  on  the  opposite  shore, 
the  Americans  have  a  strong  stone  fort,  called  Fort  Niagara^ 
over  whose  ramparts  the  French,  English  and  American  flags 
have  waved  in  succession ,  and  between  these  grim  and  frown- 
ing sentinels  we  enter 

LAKE    ONTARIO, 

Called  "The  BeatUifuly'  which  is  five  hundred  miles  round; 
the  length  measuring  three  times  the  breadth,  and  its  surface 
being  231  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Atlantic.  The  largest 
ships  may  sail  throughout  the  whole  extent.  In  many  parts,  a 
line  of  six  hundred  feet  has  not  reached  the  bottom ;  owing  to 
this  great  depth,  it  never  freezes,  except  where  the  water  is 
shallow,  along  the  shores.  We  are  now  upon  the  sparkling 
waves  of  this  magnificent  lake ;  and  steering  to  the  westward, 
along  the  Canadian  shore,  we  pass  Port  Dalhousie,  the  entrance 
of  the  Wetland  Cmial.  This  canal  is  a  work  of  great  magni- 
tude, constructed  in  the  most  substantial  manner,  at  the  expense 
of  the  British  government.  It  is  twenty-eight  miles  long,  has 
twenty-two  locks  of  granite,  and  ships  and  propellers  of  about 
500  tons  burthen  can  thus  pass  and  repass  from  Lake  Ontario 
to  Lake  Erie;  which  makes  ship  navigation  complete,  from  the 
head  of  the  great  lakes  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Continuing  our 
voyage  westward,  we  approach  the  flourishing 

CITY   OF     HAMILTON, 

Which  contains  about  7,000  inhabitants,  standing  on  Burling- 
ton Bay,  and  situated  at  the  head  of  the  lake.  No  place  in 
Canada  is  more  distinguished  for  commercial  enterprise.  In  the 
rear  of  Hamilton  is  a  range  of  heights,  a  continuation  of  the 
ridge  from  Queenston  Heights,  and  supposed  to  have  been  for- 
merly the  boundary  of  Lake  Ontario  in  this  direction.  From 
this  point  is  seen  Dundrum  Castle,  the  seat  of  Sir  Allan  McNab, 
well  known  in  Canadian  history.  Our  course  now  takes  us 
down  the  lake  towards  the  northeast,  the  shores  exhibiting 
scenery  of  a  pleasant  and  pastoral  character ;  and  the  pretty 


i 


t 

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,;:f"'^" 


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:^ 


5^^^ 


nder  General 
ve  the  town, 
rds  the  outlet 
Pposite  shore, 
^ri  Niagara, 
oerican  flags 
^  and  frown- 


niles  round  ; 

its  surface 
The  largest 
^"y  parts,  a 
;  owing  to 
e  water  is 

sparkling 
westward, 
e  entrance 
Jat  magni- 
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Jong,  has 

oC  about 
e  Ontario 

from  the 
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r:. 


19 


CITY    OP    TORONTO 

Meets  our  view.  It  is  distant  forty-two  miles  from  Hamilton, 
contains  about  twenty-five  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  the  third 
place  in  point  of  population  in  Canada.  It  is  delightfully  situ- 
ated on  a  bay,  formed  by  a  low,  sandy  peninsula,  called  Gibral- 
tar Point,  and  has  the  only  natural  harbor  to  be  found  on  the 
Canadian  side  of  the  lake.  In  1793,  Gov.  General  Simcoe 
caused  this  harbor  to  be  surveyed,  and  founded  the  town,  then 
called  Little  York.  Two  Indians  of  the  Massasauga  tribe  were 
at  that  time  in  (juict  possession,  and  myriads  of  wild  fowl 
crowded  the  waters  of  the  bay.  In  1813,  General  Pike,  with  a 
small  body  of  Americans,  captured  and  burnt  it;  General  Pike 
being  killed  by  the  explosion  of  a  magazine.  After  the  peace  it 
was  rebuilt,  and  the  name  was  changed  to  the  old  Indian  word 
Toronto — signifying  "  The  Place  of  CounciV^  It  is  a  rapidly 
rising  place,  thoroughly  English  in  appearance,  and  well  paved 
and  lighted;  the  houses  and  public  buildings  are  constructed  in 
a  substantial  and  elegant  manner. 

The  towns  of  Port  Hope,  Cobukg,  and  other  places  of  less 
note,  are  now  shown  oa  the  painting,  and  Snake  Island  meets 
the  view,  situated  in  mid-channel.  You  have  a  view  of  the 
large  penitentiary  of  the  Province,  as  you  approach 

KINGSTON. 

This  city  presents  a  most  imposing  appearance  from  the  lake ; 
surrounded  by  mnrtello  towers  and  fortifications,  lately  erected, 
nt  an  immense  cost,  by  the  British  government.  It  is  pleasantly 
tiituated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles 
from  Hamilton,  on  the  site  of  Fort  Frontenac,  which  was  built 
by  the  French,  in  1672.  On  a  high  rocky  ridge,  forming  the 
east  side  of  Navy  Bay,  and  extending  half  a  mile  into  the  lake, 
is  Furt  Hetny,  a  place  of  great  strength,  commanding  the  city, 
the  harbor,  and  all  the  approaches  to  them,  both  by  land  and 
water.  The  Rklenu  Canal,  a  most  important  work,  which 
commences  at  lii/town,  on  the  River  Ottawa,  terminates  here, 
after  a  course  of  over  one  hundred  miles.  Steamboats  and  other 
craft  were  by  this  means  enabled  to  ascend  from  the  St.  Law- 
rence, avoiding  the  several  rapids,  but  the  completion  of  the 


t# 


**'.  m 


k 


20 

several  canals  around  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  has  de- 
prived the  Rideau  of  much  of  its  former  business. 

Kingston  was  chartered  as  a  city  in  1840,  and  now  contains 
over  12,000  inhabitants.  It  possesses,  besides  several  other  fine 
public  buildings,  a  splendid  Town  Hall  and  MarA-e/,— and,  next 
to  Quebec  and  HaMfax,  is  considered  the  strongest  military  po- 
sition in  North  America. 

Leaving  Kingston,  we  now  enter  upon  the  great 

RIVER    ST.    LAWRENCE. 

And  here  let  the  reader  remember,  that  this  river  really  has 
its  source  seven  hundred  miles  northwest  of  Lake  Superior,  in 
the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  whence  it  flows  through  a  long  chain 
of  lakes,  before  it  expands  successively  into  the  immense  fresh 
water  seas  of  Superior,  Huron,  Erie,  and  Ontario.  Below 
Kingston  it  regains  the  character  of  a  river,  and  continues  in  an 
uninterrupted  course  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Floating  along  the 
stream,  which  is  here  from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  wide,  we  find 
ourselves  surrounded  by  the 

THOUSAND    ISLANDS. 

The  largest  are  from  eight  to  twelve  miles  in  length,  and  three 
to  five  miles  in  breadth  ;  the  smallest,  not  an  acre  in  extent. 
Though  this  extensive  group  bears  the  name  of  the  Thousand 
Isles,  there  are  more  than  1,500  of  them,  forming  a  perpetual 
succession  of  the  most  romantically  beautiful  and  picturesque 
objects  that  can  be  imagined.  The  traveller  is  spell-bound, 
whilst  viewing  these  matchless  combinations  of  rock,  wood  and 
water : — 

"  Hail,  Lake  of  Thousand  Isles ! 
Which  clustered  lie  within  thy  circling  arms, 
Their  flower-strewn  shores  kissed  by  the  silver  tide  ! 
As  fair  art  thou  as  aught 
That  ever  in  the  lap  of  nature  lay." 

Warburton,  in  his  Hochelaga,  thus  describes  his  impressions 
whilst  gazing  on  this  fairy  scene : — 

"  Now  we  are  among  the  mazes  of  the  '  Thousand  Islands,' 
and  pass  so  close  to  some  of  them  that  we  can  pull  the  leaves 
from  the  bending  boughs  of  the  trees,  as  the  merciless  wheels 
of  the  steamer  dash  to  atoms  their  beautiful  reflection  in  the 


'•5; 


■* 


^^, 


mfi 


■jt^.;- 


''■  t" 

■ence,  has  de- 

now  contains 

•1 

ral  other  fine 

',— and,  next 

military  po. 

'  really  has 
Superior,  in 
Jong  chain 
nense  fresh 
w.  Below 
nues  in  an 
J  along  the 
'e,  we  find 


and  three 
in  extent. 
^housand 
perpetual 
turesque 
bound, 
ood  and 


'Ssions 

ands,' 
eaves 
heels 
the 


21 


mirror  of  the  calm  blue  water.  The  eye  does  not  weary  to  see, 
but  the  hand  aches  in  ever  writing  the  one  word,  beauty,  wher- 
ever you  steer  over  this  great  river — beauty,  beauty  still." 

As  wo  emerge  from  this  scene  of  enchantment,  the  river  contracts 
to  about  two  miles  in  width.  The  scenery  is  constantly  changing ; 
at  one  moment,  white,  cultivated  fields  and  rural  settlements  ap- 
pear; at  the  next,  features  of  bold  outline  impart  a  grandeur 
and  variety  to  the  river  and  its  shores  possessed  by  no  other  stream 
in  an  equal  degree.  Descending,  the  small  village  of  Ganonnoqui 
meets  our  view,  and  Welts  Island^  belonging  to  the  United 
States,  is  also  passed.     In  1838,  this  island  was  the  scene  of  a 
daring  act  of  piracy.     The  British  steamer  "(Str  Robert  Peel,^^ 
whilst  stopping  to  wood,  was  boarded  at  midnight  by  a  band  of 
armed  men,  who,  after  ordering  the  captain,  crew  and  passen- 
gers ashore,  robbed  the  vessel  of  everything  valuable,  and  set 
her  on  fire.     The  celebrated  Bill  Johnson  was  suspected  to  be 
the  leader  of  the  gang.     Leaving  this  scene  of  outrage,  we  ar- 
rive at  Brockville,  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in  Canada.     The 
houses  are  built  with  considerable  taste,  and  the  scenery  they 
command  is  exquisite.     Below,  the  small  village  of  Maitland 
is  seen,  and  we  arrive  at  Prescott,  which  is  a  town  of  some 
importance,  possessing  a  population  of  some  4,000  inhabitants. 
Fort  Wellington,   strongly   garrisoned,  commands    the   river. 
Windmill  Point,  one  mile  below  Prescott,  is  a  spot  made  mem- 
orable during  the  late  rebellion.     In  November,  1838,  a  body  of 
American  sympathizers,  under  the  command  of  a  Pole  named 
Von  Schtdtz,  landed  at  this  spot  to'aid  the  patriots.    They  took 
possession  of  the  windmill  and  some  stone  houses,  and  defended 
themselves,  fighting  desperately  for  some  time;  but  the  British 
forces,  bringing  some  cannon  to  bear  upon  them,  rendered  their 
position  untenable,  and  the  survivors  were  compelled  to  surren- 
der.    The  leaders  suffered  death  on  the  gallows,  as  pirates ;  the 
others  were  sentenced  to  transportation  for  life  to  Van  Dieman's 
Land,  but  have  since  been  pardoned  by  Queen  Victoria.     The 
windmill  and  roofless  houses,  shattered  by  the  artillery,  give 
fearful  evidence  to  the  spectator  of  the  murderous  conflict  which 
there  took  place.    Immediately  opposite  to  Prescott,  and  con- 
nected with  it  by  a  ferry,  is  Ogdensburgh,  (which,  with  Pres- 
cott, the  windmill,  iScc,  all  come  in  full  view  on  this  great 
painting,)  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie  River;  and 


iii 


'itZfei 


1:1 


i  ■ 


p^i 


i  f 


32 


as  it  appears  to  be  a  bustling,  go-ahead  town,  we  will  request 
the  reader  to  land  with  us,  and  fake  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the 
whole  citjr.  The  rising  sun  lights  up  the  various  streets,  and 
the  snug  dwellings  with  handsome  flower-gardens  attached. 
Even  at  this  early  hour,  the  mills  and  factories  appear  to  be  in 
full  operation  ;  the  venders  of  milk  are  serving  their  customers; 
the  population  are  all  astir,  and  the  whole  place  has  the  appear- 
ance of  thriving  industry  and  prosperity,  which  stamps  it  as 
belonging  to  Uncle  Sam's  dominions.  Once  more  we  are  upon 
the  bosom  of  the  noble  river;  and  confiding  in  the  skill  of  an 
experienced  pilot,  we  fearlessly  brave  the  **  Gallop  Rapids," 
and,  hurried  through  the  plunging,  foaming  billows,  find  our- 
selves again  in  smooth  water.  A  succession  of  these  dangerous 
rapids  extends  at  intervals  from  this  point  to  a  little  above 
Montreal;  all  of  them  are,  however,  navigable  by  steamers  de- 
scending; but  ascending,  they  are  obliged  to  pass  through  a 
series  of  Canals^  which  have  been  constructed  all  along  the 
shores  of  the  river,  in  order  to  avoid  these  rapids.  Steam-pro- 
pellers, and  other  craft,  freighted  with  the  produce  of  the  Far 
West,  are  enabled  to  make  their  transit  by  the  canals  from  Lake 
Superior  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  thence  across  the  Atlantic  to 
Europe.  The  immense  rafts  of  timber  which  float  down  this 
great  river,  and  through  the  surging  rapids,  on  their  way  to 
Mojitreal  and  Quebec,  are  objects  of  wonder  and  admiration  to 
all  strangers.  Whilst  drifting  down  some  uninterrupted  reach, 
several  rafts,  attached  to  each  other  by  brackets  operating  on 
the  principle  of  a  swivel,  form  one  immense  raft,  often  a  mile 
in  length.  On  arriving  at  the  commencement  of  the  rapids,  the 
rafts  dissolve  partnership,  and  the  hardy  lumberers  ply  their 
long  sweeps  with  desperate  energy  until  the  danger  is  passed. 
Yet  it  often  happens  that,  in  spite  of  their  skill,  the  ponderous 
mass  of  timber  is  dashed  with  resistless  force  against  the  rocks 
hidden  by  the  foam  of  the  boiling  surges,  or  islands  that  inter- 
sect the  furious  current  of  the  river.  Many  poor  fellows  meet  a 
watery  grave  ;  whilst  the  logs  of  timber,  and  the  sawn  lumber, 
on  which  so  much  labor  has  been  expended,  become  the  booty 
of  river  pirates,  always  on  the  alert  for  such  disasters.  A  great 
variety  of  these  rafts  in  different  situations  are  faithfully  por- 
trayed on  the  painting  which  this  book  is  intended  to  accompa- 
ny.   As  I  have  occasionally  mentioned  particular  objects,  as 


^h 


* 


1 


ill 


iM> 


e  wi!I  request 
^e  view  of  the 
's  streets,  and 
ens  attached. 
>pear  to  be  in 
ir  customers  • 
's  the  appear- 

stamps  it  as 
We  are  upon 
2  skill  of  an 
OP  Rapids," 
%  find  our- 
8  dangerous 
little  above 
teatners  de- 

th rough  a 

along  the 
Steam-pro- 
'f  the  Far 
from  Lake 
Atlantic  to 
Jown  this 
•r  way  to 
iration  to 
-d  reach, 
■ating  on 
a  mile 

>ids,  the 
their 

passed, 
iderous 
rocks 
inter- 

rneet  a 

irnber, 

booty- 
great 
por- 

mpa- 
as 


'     f; 


23 


appearing  on  the  painting,  it  may  be  proper  to  state  that  the 
whole  range  of  scenery,  including  almost  every  object  and 
place,  however  minute,  on  both  shores  from  Lake  Erie  to  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  arc  depicted  with  the  same  care  and  truthful- 
ness as  those  to  which  I  make  particular  allusion. 

The  country  is  now  of  a  quietly  undulating  character; 
cheerful  villages  and  green  clearings  diversify  the  scenery. 
Gliding  by  Matilda's  Landing,  one  of  the  entrances  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Canal,  we  pass  successively  the  villages  of  East 
and  West  Williamsburg,  and  then  for  several  miles  are  carried 
through  the  dangerous  rapids  of  the  Long  Sault.  Cornwall,  a 
town  of  some  importance,  containing  about  2,000  inhabitants, 
and  situated  at  the  lower  end  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Canal,  is 
seen,  and  four  miles  below,  on  the  American  side  of  the  river, 
we  come  to  the  Indian  village  of  St.  Regis,  which  is  on  the 
line  of  45  degrees,  north  latitude.  Part  of  this  village  is  in 
Canada  and  part  in  the  United  States ;  the  dividing  line  being 
accurately  drawn  on  the  foreground  of  the  Panorama ;  the  B'ver 
St.  Lawrence,  below  this  point,  being  entirely  in  Canada. 
Here,  on  a  small  portion  of  the  hunting  grounds  of  their  once 
powerful  nation,  is  to  be  found  a  settlement  of  the  Iroquois. 
Many  of  the  men  obtain  a  precarious  subsistence  by  hunting ; 
the  women  make  mitts,  baskets  and  moccasons.  The  Indian 
boys  are  expert  swimmers,  and  during  the  summer  season,  visit- 
ers often  put  their  skill  to  the  test  by  throwing  a  piece  of  money 
into  the  river  from  the  steamboat  landing,  when  half  a  dozen 
of  the  little  copper-colored  urchins  will  dive  in  after  it,  generally 
succeeding  in  catching  it  almost  before  it  reaches  the  bottom, 
although  sometimes  compelled  to  dive  to  the  depth  of  ten  or 
twenty  feet.  Passing  the  lighthouse,  we  enter  an  expansion  of 
the  river  thirty  miles  in  length  and  seven  in  breadth,  called 
Lake  St.  Francis.  On  the  shore  may  be  observed  a  large  cairn, 
or  pile  of  stones,  raised  by  the  loyal  Glengarry  Highlanders  in 
honor  of  Sir  John  Colborne,  formerly  Governor  General  of  Can- 
ada. Lancaster,  another  convenient  steamboat  landing,  is  now 
before  us.  It  is  connected  by  a  road  with  the  celebrated  Cale- 
donia Springs,  thirty  miles  distant.  The  dividing  line  of  the 
two  provinces  crossed,  we  now  arrive  at  the  village  of  Coteau 
du  Lac,  in  Loxcer  Canada,  or  Canada  East,  as  it  is  generally 
designated  by  the  Canadians.    A  few  miles  further,  the  village 


ill 


uO^ 


24 

of  the  Cedars  is  past,  and  here  we  behold  the  mighty  St.  Law- 
rence pent  into  several  narrow  channels,  among  wooded  islands, 
and  rushing  fiercely  along  over  its  rocky  bed ;— nothing  can  ex- 
ceed the  exciting  spectacle  of  the  Cedar  Rapids,  with  its  frantic 
billows  capped  with  snowy  plumes.  The  islands  which  obstruct 
the  current  of  the  river  are  perfect  gems  of  beauty.     Nature,  in 
one  of  her  loveliest  freaks,  has  sprinkled  them  with  flowers, 
wreathed  them  with  vines,  and  the  'flowering  shrubs  and  trees 
drop  their  leaves,  and  dip  their  branches  and  buds  in  the  angry 
tide,  as  if  to  deprecate  its  wrath.     Passengers  on  the  deck  of  the 
passing  steamer  may  often   be  seen  plucking  them  from  the 
branches.    Steamboats  pass  down  these  rapids,  though  not  with- 
out risk  as  may  be  imagined,  when  the  rapid  current  sweeps 
them  close  to  rocks  and  islands,  which  if  touched  would  insure 
destruction.     Latterly,  however,  the  route  has  been  rendered 
more  safe  by  the  discovery  of  a  channel,  which  it  is  said  was 
used  long  ago  by  the  French  voyageurs.     In  the   Cedar  and 
Cascade  Rapids  there  is  a  ditference  of  sixty  feet  in  the  elevation 
in  about  sixteen  miles,  and  the  immense  body  of  water  rushes 
down  at  the  rate  of  from  tw&nty  to  thirty  miles  per  hour.     To 
ascend  against  this  current  would  be  impossible,  therefore  vessels 
of  every  description  pass  through  the  Beauharvois  Canal,  which 
commences  at  the  village  of  that  name,  sixteen  miles  below.    In 
the  year  1759,  when  General  Amherst  entered  Canada,  his  ad- 
vanced guard,  of  about  300  men,  embarked  above  the  Cedars: 
the  intention  was  to  float  down  and  take  up  a  position  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.     Perhaps  these  dangerous  channels 
were  but  little  known,  or  the  pilot  played  them   false— none 
survived  as  accusers;  the  next  day  the  lifeless  bodies  of  the 
British  soldiers,  clothed  in   the  well  known  red,  floating  past 
Montreal,  gave  the  first  notice  of  invasion.     Leaving  behind  us 
the  Cascade  Rapids,  and  passing  the  lighthouse,  we  find  our- 
selves upon  the  bosom  of  the  calm  and  glassy  La/ce  St.  Louis, 
another  expansion  of  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  two  and  a  half 
miles  wide  at  this  point.     Here  the  St.  Lawrence  receives  an 
important  accession,  by  the  influx  of  one  branch  of  the  great 
RivEii  Utta WAS  or  Ottawa,  from  the  northwest.     Its  immense 
vohimc  of  water,   (which  is  probably  fully  equal  to  the  Ohio 
RivEu,)   is  discharged  into  the  St.    Lawrence  through   three 
separate  and  distinct  channels,  the  last  of  which  is  about  twenty 


I 


'     \ 


**■ 


ii!^*j 


¥ 


?f»ty  St.  Law. 
5oded  islands, 
►thing  can  ex- 
Jth  its  frantic 
'lich  obstruct 

Nature,  in 
vith  flowers, 
lbs  and  trees 
in  the  angry 
Jdeclcof  ihe 
m  from  the 
;h  not  wifh- 
I'ent  sweeps 
ould  insure 
n  rendered 
is  said  was 
Ceefar  and 
e  elevation 
Jter  rushes 
'lour.     To 
'ore  x^essels 
which 

w.    In 

is  ad- 

C'edars  : 

on  the 

annels 
'—none 

of  the 
g  past 

lid  us 

I  our- 

n  half 

OS  an 

great 
mense 
'  Ohfo 

three 
v^cnty 


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)n 
ch 
ie 
s 

"? 

lit 

ud 


25 


miles  below  Montreal,  its  yellow  clay-colored  water  forming  a 
striking  contrast  where  it  mingles  with  the  pure  blue  water  of 
the  St.  Laicjcnce.  The  scenery  along  the  entire  length,  owing 
to  the  numerous  falls  and  cascades^  is  extremely  romantic.  A 
few  miles  above  this  embouchure  of  the  Ottawa  is  situated  the 
village  of  iSt.  Ann.  It  owes  its  existence  and  support  to  the 
contributions  of  the  Canadian  Voyageurs,  who  never  omit  to 
pay  their  offerings  at  the  shrine  of  St.  Anne,  their  tutelar  saint, 
before  engaging  in  any  enterprise,  This  gave  rise  to  the  Can- 
adian boat  song  of  Moore  : — 

"  Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime, 
Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time  ; 
Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim, 
We'll  sing  at  St.  Ann's  our  parting  hymn  ; 
Row,  brothers,  row,  the  stream  runs  fast, 
The  Rapids  arc  near  and  the  daylight's  passed,"  &c.,  &c. 

Many  who  never  have  seen  and  never  will  see  the  '•  Uttawas' 
tide"  have  sung  in  cadence  to  its  murmuring,  till  it  has  become 
aliaost  a  household  word.  Neither  the  Hudson,  Mississippi  or 
(.)hio,  can  boast  of  such  charming  scenery  as  is  seen  on  the 
Ottawa.  Continuing  down  the  lake  we  arrive  at  the  Iroquois 
settlement  of  Canghnaivaga  or  the  "  Village  of  the  liapids," 
situated  on  tlu!  southern  shore,  ten  miles  from  Montreal.  Their 
number  is  about  1,:200;  they  have  a  very  respectable  church 
and  comfortable  houses;  they  subsist  principally  in  the  summer 
by  navigating  Itoats  and  raits  down  the  Lachine  Rapids ;  and 
in  tlic  winter,  by  the  marnifacture  and  sale  of  snow-shoes,  moc- 
casous,  itc.  During  the  troubles  of  1H'{8,  these  Indians  rendered 
an  csseulial  service  to  the  government.  On  Siuiday,  4th  day  of 
November,  a  body  of  armed  insurgents  had  concealed  thcni" 
selves  in  the  woods  near  the  village,  with  the  probable  intention 
of  commit  ling  some  deprcnlation  during  the  night.  These  were 
discovered  by  some  Indian  children  who  were  searching  for 
berries,  and  who  carried  the  news  to  the  church,  where  the  war- 
riors were  alimdlng  divine  servioe.  The  congregation  tiu'ued 
out  en  mrissr,  and,  raising  the  warwiioop,  rushed  upon  the  in- 
surgetits,  took  iliem  prisoners,  and  disarmed  thcrn.  They  then 
carried  them  down  to  Montreal  atid  delivered  them  up  to 
the  authorities.  Their  loyal  oondiict  has  been  rewarded  by 
special  marks  of  favor  from   Her  Majesty's  governmont.     On 


'  *^!f^^»*^^^^^ 


iii^ 


26 


the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  the  little  village  of  Lachhie,  con- 
nected with  Montreal,  by  railroad  and  canal, — how  it  came  to 
be  thus  named  is  worth  relating.  At  the  time  Canada  was 
discovered,  the  great  object  of  adventure  was  to  find  a  north- 
west passage  to  India  and  China.  Champlain,  who,  in  his 
second  voyage  to  this  country,  made  a  settlement  at  Montreal, 
was  so  convinced  that  a  passage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  could  be 
made  by  the  way  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  great  Lakes,  that 
he  named  the  river  above  the  rapids,  Lachine,  (China,)  meaning 
that  it  was  the  road  to  China,  which  name  it  bears  to  this  day. 
After  leaving  Lachine,  the  Si.  Lajcrcnce  contracts,  boils  tip, 
and  foams  in  a  most  terrific  manner  amongst  rocks  and  small 
islands,  for  nine  miles,  forming  the  Rapids  of  Lachine  or  Sault 
St.  Louis.  The  current  is  forced  through  a  variety  of  narrow 
channels  in  many  places,  at  the  rate  of  thirty  miles  per  hour, 
and  the  roaring  of  the  maddened  waters  may  be  heard  for 
several  miles.  These  are  the  most  dangerous  rapids  along  the 
course  of  the  Sf.  fMvrencc ;  vessels  descend  them,  although 
they  often  sufler  for  their  temerity;  but  it  is  impracticable  to 
ascend,  except  by  passing  through  the  fine  ship  canal  Avhich 
extends  from  Montreal  to  the  village  of  Lachiwe.  The  noble 
river  now  assumes  its  usual  dignified  appearance,  placidly  ex- 
panding to  more  than  two  miles  in  width,  and  leaving  the 
delightful  village  of  Laprairie  on  the  right  hand,  (where  com- 
mences the  St.  John  railroad,)  it  presents  us  with  a  most  im- 
posing and  magnificent  view  of 

MONTREAL,     THK    CAPITAL    CITY  OF 
UNITED    CANADA. 

In  mid-cliannel,  and  one  mile  from  the  city,  St  Helen's 
Island,  clothed  with  verdure  and  interspersed  with  fine  trees, 
amidst  which  field-works  and  fortifications  peep  out,  forms  the 
foreground.  Facing  us  to  the  westward,  we  behold  a  spectacle 
unequalled  in  North  America — a  City  of  CJkanitr,  with  such 
an  appearance  of  solidity  that  it  would  seem  as  if  rntcudod  to 
last  for  ages.  A  massive  stone  quay  extends  along  the  whole 
river  front,  forming  a  delightful  promenade  in  summer.  The 
margin  is  lined  with  noble  stone  warehouses  resembling  a  row 
of  fortifications ;  fronting  the  St.  l-awrence  is  the  Bonsrcnurs 
Mnrhet,  an  imposing  structure,  exceeding  many  royal  palaces 


^! 


M' 


f  Lachine,  con' 
'lo^vr  it  came  to 
^'  Canada  was 
'  find  a  north- 
'   '^ho,  in  his 
'tat  Monfreal, 
cean  could  be 
at  Lalres,  that 
'"a,)  meaning 
s  to  this  day. 
'cts,  boils  up, 
fs  and  small 
MINE  or  Sault 
ty  of  narrow 
'es  per  hour, 
c  heard  for 
is  along  the 
n,  although 
acticable  to 
anal  which 

The  noble 
acidly  ox- 
nving  tho 
'"ere  com- 

most  im- 


'   OP 


no 


fhlcn'a 
troes, 
rnis  (he 
f'«'tncle 
'i  such 
fJod  to 
whole 
The 
a  row 

n  laces 


27 


in  architectural  embellishments.  The  French  Cathedral  of  Notre 
Dame  is  a  magnificent  pile  of  building — \yithout  exception  the 
largest  religious  edifice  in  America.     The  length  from  east  to 
west  is  255  feet  one  inch— the  breadth,  134  feet,  and  the  two 
towers  on  the  principal  or  west  front   arc  each  220  feet  high.  It 
possesses  the    largest  bell  in  the  western  hemisphere.     It  con- 
tains 1,211  pews,  and    in  this  immense   temple   10,000  people 
can  kneel  in  prayer.     Amongst  many  other  fine  churches  of 
which   this  city  cun    boast,  St.    Putrklc's  Catholic  Church  is 
capable  of  holding  7000  persons.     The   public   buildings  are 
numerous  and  imposing.     They  include  the  Parliament  House, 
Government  House,  The  Hotel  Dieu,  two  large  Nunneries,  the 
Seminary  of  St.    Sulpice,   some   fine   banks,   an   elegant  and 
convenient  theatre,  and   barracks  for  2,000  men ;  while  in  the 
rear  of  the  city,  Mont  lioyal,  studded  with  handsome  villas, 
looms  up  majestically  to  the  height  of  GOO  feet,  and  forms  the 
back-ground  of  (he  picture.     During  (he  Canadian  riots,  on  the 
night  of  the  25th  of  April,  1810,  the   House  of  Assembly,  with 
all  the  archives  and  records  of  the  colonies,  for  upv/ardsofa 
century,   was  destroyed  by  fire.     The  books  were  valiied  at 
£100,(100; — not  eighty  dollars'  worth  of  property  was  saved. 
The  loss  is  irreparable.     The  queen's  picture,  which  was  saved 
from  iho  burning  buildings,  was  destroyed  in  the  streets.    Mon- 
treal is  well   lighted  with  gas,   has  an  ellicieut  police,  and  is 
considered  the  cleanest  cit\  "  in  her  Majesty's  dominions,'  and 
is,  without  exception,  the  cleanest  city  in  America.  Here,  ladies 
are  as  often  seen  walking  in  the  middle  of  the  street  as  on  the 
side-walk,  and    (lia(  too  without  soiling  a  kid  slipper,     livery- 
thing  jiboui  the  city  speaks  of  its  French  origin,  and  so  tena- 
cious have  been  (he  Krcuoh  of  tlwir  nationality,  that  a  century 
of  l^lngiish  rule  has  altered  but  slightly  their  habits  or  maimers. 
All  the  public  documents  are  still  printed  in  French  as  well  as 
English.     The  new  streets  arc  spacious,  containing  many  ele- 
gant stores.  The  hotels  are  luuuerous;  Donnegana's,  a  splendid 
house,  ((jualliiig   iii   size  the   Astor   House,  of  New   York,  hus 
lately  been  deslroyed  by   fire;  it  was  iinsurpas.sed  in  (he  ele- 
gance of  its  accommodations.    In  the  year  ISOO,  the  inliahitaiits 
erecU'd  by  subscriplioii  a   monumeiii  to  iiord  Nelson,  the  hero 
of  Trafalgar.     U  consists  of  a  stone  column,  surmounted  by  a 


Id 


h 


28 


fine  statue  of  the  naval  hero ;  it  fronts  the  principal  street,  of 
which  it  is  an  ornament. 

On  the  second  visit  of  Jacques  Cartier  to  this  country,  during 
the  reign  of  Francis  1st,  of  France,  he  heard  that  there  was  a 
large  settlement  far  up  the  great  river,  called  Hochelaga,  and  he 
determined  to  sail  in  quest  of  it.  After  a  perilous  voyage  lie 
discovered  a  fortified  town,  belonging  to  the  Huron  tribe,  among 
rich  corn  fields,  on  a  beautiful  island,  and  under  the  shade  of  a 
mountain  named  Mont  Royal,  which  time  has  changed  to 
Montreal.  Sixty-eight  years  afterwards,  the  Sieur  Demonts, 
speaking  of  Canada,  reported  that  the  "  village  of  Hochelaga 
was  now  no  more." 

But  in  the  year  1640,  several  persons,  full  of  religious  zeal, 
formed  themselves  into  a  society  for  the  purpose  of  colonizing 
the  island  of  Mont  Royal.  The  king  of  France  ceded  to  this 
association  the  whole  island,  and  Monsieur  Maisonneuve  was 
appointed  governor,  17th  June,  1642.  The  spot  selected  for 
the  city  was  consecrated  by  the  superior  of  the  Jesuits,  the 
"Queen  of  Angels"  was  supplicated  to  take  it  under  her  pro- 
tection, and  it  was  named  after  her,  "La  Ville  Marie."  In  1644, 
the  whole  of  this  beautiful  domain,  Avhich,  on  account  of  its  fer- 
tility, is  called  the  Garden  of  Canada,  became  the  property  cf 
the  St.  Sulpicians  of  Paris,  and  was  by  thr;m  afterwards  con- 
veyed to  the  Seminary  of  the  same  order  at  Montreal,  in  whose 
possession  it  now  remains.  At  the  conquest  of  Canada  by  Oreat 
Britain,  in  1760,  the  property  and  revenues  of  the  seignories, 
and  all  estates  belonging  to  existing  religious  institutiotis,  were 
guaranteed  to  the  possessors. 

The  terms  in  favor  of  the  French  residents  were  faithfully 
and  even  liberally  fulfilled  by  the  British  government.  Civil 
and  religious  liberty  was  granted  to  the  Canadians,  and  great 
forbearance  and  generosity  were  displayed  by  the  captors  to  tho 
conquered.  The  Canadians  were  so  gratified  with  the  chr.nge 
which  thoy  experienced  in  coming  tuider  the  British  rule,  that 
when  (Jeorgo  H.  died,  in  1760,  all  the  French  in  Canada  of  any 
distinction  went  into  mourning.  Within  the  last  half  century 
many  capitalists  from  F'ngland  and  Scotland  have  settled  at 
Montreal,  and  have  infused  a  vigor  and  energy  into  it  which  is 
perceptible  in  its  extended  commerce  and  in  the  improvements 
which  are  daily  taking  place.     The  completion  of  the  lino  of 


«r 


H' 


ki 


29 


canals,  opening  to  Montreal  the  trade  of  the  western  country, 
has  also  added  to  its  wealth  and  importance. 

Leaving  MonU'eal  on  our  passage  to  Quebec,  we  have  a  fine 
view  on  the  right  hand  of  ^S"^.  Helenas  Island;  its  pleasant  green 
slopes  and  shady  glens  affording  delightful  situations  tor  pic- 
nic parties,  of  which  the  citizens  of  Montreal  frequently  avail 
themselves  in  summer.  On  our  left  we  are  passing  a  quarter 
of  the  city  called  the  Quebec  Suburbs.  It  contains  several 
buildings  of  note,— the  Military  Hospital,  the  New  Jail,  and 
Molsori's  Brewery,  an  immense  range  of  stone  buildings,  almost 
equal  in  extent  to  some  of  the  F  er  Breweries  of  London. 
A  little  below  this  a  ferry  connects  with  the  village  of  Longueil 
on  the  opposite  shore,  from  whence  there  is  a  fine  plank-road 
extending  about  twenty-three  miles  to  Chambly.  On  this  road, 
two  miles  from  the  village,  the  first  blood  was  shed  during 
the  rebellion  of  1837.  A  peace  officer  having  two  prisoners 
in  custody,  and  accompanied  by  a  party  of  the  Royal  Mon- 
treal Cavalry,  just  previously  organized,  were  returning  to  Mon- 
treal, when  they  were  intercepted  by  a  large  body  of  armed 
peasantry,  who  fired  upon  them  from  a  large  barn  and  from  be- 
hind the  fences  which  bordered  the  road.  Several  of  the  cavalry 
were  wounded  and  their  prisoners  rescued.  We  now  descend 
the  Rapids  of  St.  Mary,  and  on  the  north  shore  pass  in  suc- 
cession the  villages  of  Longueil  Point  and  Point  au.v  Trembles, 
and  on  the  south  shore,  the  village  of  Boucherville.  Another 
branch  of  the  Oliaim  now  joins  the  St.  Lawrence,  still  increas- 
ing the  already  enormous  volume  of  water.  Village  after  vil- 
lage is  now  passed,  each  with  its  picturesque  church;  indeed, 
the  whole  banks  of  the  river  hence  to  Quebec,  and  200  miles  be- 
low that  city,  appear  to  be  one  continuous  village,  being  thickly 
dotted  with  the  white  cottages,  churches,  and  long  white  barns 
of  the  simple  /labitans.  The  French  Canadian  remains  to  this 
day  in  all  his  customs,  as  were  his  forefathers  a  century  back; 
he  makes  no  improvement  either  in  the  tilling  of  his  land  or 
his  household  habits.  On  his  saint's  day,  oV  the  Sabbath,  he 
repairs  to  his  village  church  clothed  in  the  same  style  as  his  an- 
cestors. During  the  summer  he  cultivates  his  land,  and  when 
the  snows  of  winter  cover  the  earth,  he  harnesses  his  little 
ponies,  and  accompanied  by  his  happy  family,  visits  his  neigh- 
bors, and,  seated  round  their  large  square  stoves,  made  in  the 


30 


li. 


Style  of  a  past  century,  passes   his  long  winter   evenings  in 
happiness,  amusing  himself  with  tales  of  "La  Belle  France.^^ 
Kind,  hospitable,  contented,  he  asks  for  no  change  of  his  con- 
dition, but  only  desires  to  be  allowed  to  do  as  his  fathers  did 
before  him.    He  dies — and  his  children  divide  his  land,  each  tak- 
ing a  "  «/f//e/,"  and  live  over  the  same  old  scenes  again.    There 
dwells  not  on  the  face  of  the  earth  a  more  happy,  contented  and 
honest  people.    Vaj-ctmes,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
is  a  deliglitful  place,  famous  for  tbe  mineral  springs  in  its  vicin- 
ity.    Tn  the  distance,  the  holy  mountain,  its  summit  crowned 
with  the  pilgrim's  cross,  which  may  be  seen  for  many  miles, 
imparts  a  grandeur  to  the  scene.     The  cross  was  erected  by  tha 
Bishop  of  Nancy ;  it  is  made  of  timber  100  feet  high,  and  covered 
with  tin.  which,  in  the  dry  atmosphere  of  this  country,  always 
retains   its   brightness,  and   many  a   pious  habitant  devoutly 
crosses  himself  when  he  beholds  tliis  emblem  of  his  faith  shining 
like  burnished  gold  in  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun.    Fifteen  miles 
further,  on  the  same  side,  the  St.  Lawrence  receives  the  Riche- 
lieu Rirnr  which  issues  from  Lafce  Charnplain,  and  flows  for 
about  seventy  miles  througli  a  fertile  country.     Flourishing  set- 
tlements, neat  and  populous  villages,  and   handsome  churches 
adorn  its  banks  nearly  the  whole  length.     Near  its  junction 
with  the  St.  Lawrence  is  the  pretty  village  of  William  Henri/ 
or  Sorel,  so  called  on  accoiuit  of  its  being  built  on  the  site  of  old 
Fort  William  Henry.     This   is   a   military  station,  the  com- 
mander-in-chief generally  residing  here.     It  is  rapidly  increas- 
ing in  trade  and  importance,  and  numbers  about  3000  inhabi- 
tants, principally  British.     The  American  army  occupied  the 
old  fort,  in  1776,  on  their  retreat  from  Quebec,  after  the  death 
of  Montgomery.      Continuing    through   a   cluster   of  wooded 
islands,   we  enter    Lake  f^t.   Peter,  which  is  merely  another 
expansion  of  the  mighty  river,   to    about  15  miles  in  width 
and  2^1  in   'ength,     The    water  is   shallow,  and  of  a  great  va- 
riety of  tints.     It  is  surroiuided  by  a  fine  agricultural  country, 
while  the  scenery  along  the  banks  is  rather  flat  and  monotonous. 
Two  substantial  light-ships  mark  the  ship-channel,  which  Is 
very  intricate.     The  English  government  has  expended  nearly 
a  million  of  dollars  for  deepening  and  improving  the  channel, 
rendering  navigation  for  ships  of  a  large  class  safe  and  easy  to 
Montreal,  a  distance  of  530  miles  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean      At 
the  termination  of  the  lake,  the  river  again  rapidly  contracts  to 


^'''%W  a. 


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^f^^^P^S^^S^lPPIBBilt 


31 


its  usual  width,  resumes  its  dignified  deportment,  and,  with 
constantly  increasing  volume,  continues  on  its  pilgrimage  to  the 
ocean.  Here,  exactly  half  way  between  Montreal  and  Quebec, 
we  approach  the  old  town  of  Three  Rivers — old  for  the  west- 
mil  world — for  it  was  settled  by  the  French  in  1618.  It  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the  river  at  its 
confluence  with  the  River  S.  Maurice,  which  enters  the  St. 
Lawrence  by  three  separate  channels.  Two  islands,  connected 
by  substantial  bridges,  at  the  embouchure  of  the  St.  Maurice, 
give  it  the  appearance  of  three  distinct  rivers,  and  to  this  the 
town  owes  its  name.  It  is  famous  for  its  iron  forges,  estab- 
lished as  long  ago  as  1737.  Many  wealthy  French  families 
reside  here.  The  River  Si.  Main  ice  is  nearly  150  miles  in 
length,  and  contrilmtes  a  supply  of  water  to  the  *SV.  Lawrence 
nearly  equal  in  volume  to  that  of  the  Hudson.  Opposite  this 
enters  the  river  Becancour.  After  passing  the  mouths  of  the 
St.  Maurice  the  shores  gradually  rise,  assuming  a  loftier  and 
more  romantic  character.  Churches — generally  with  two  spires 
— villages  and  white  cottages  are  profusely  scattered  along 
the  shore.  The  population  is  now  very  dense  on  both  sides  of 
the  river.  We  now  see  in  succession  the  Batiscan  and  St. 
Anne's  rivers — the  former  a  stream  of  magnitude  entering  by 
two  channels.  Scenery  of  the  most  picturesque  and  varied 
description  continually  greets  the  eye — the  view  bounded  by 
remote  and  lofty  mountains,  from  amongst  which  the  rapid  river 
Jacques  Carder  rushes  impetuously  into  the  St.  Laurence. 
The  Richelieu  Rapids  are  next  passed — they  extend  some  ten 
miles,  and  are  very  shallow,  and  in  many  places  the  rocks  are 
visible,  threatening  shipwreck  to  the  unwary  mariner. 

The  government  has,  however,  erected  beacons  in  the  most 
dangerous  places.  On  the  north  shore  we  now  pass  Cape  Sante, 
and  directly  opposite  a  small  settlement  called  St.  Trois.  The 
banks  of  the  river  have  now  almost  a  perpendicular  elevation  of 
from  100  to  300  feet,  and  from  them  extends  back  a  beautiful 
level  plain  covered  with  the  richest  verdure.  Cape  Rouge 
appears  on  the  left,  and  here  for  the  first  time  wc  catch  a  view 
of  tht  Citadel  of  Quebec^  connected  with  so  much  historical 
reminioccnce.  On  the  south  side,  the  Chaudierc  River  rushes 
over  a  beautiful  rapid,  four  miles  from  its  mouth,  dashing  and 
foaming  amidst  the  wildest  wood-crowned  cliffs,  and  charming 


If  A 


11 


32 

sequestered  valleys.  Two  miles  above  Quebec  we  reach  WoLFe'i* 
Cove,  the  spot  where,  after  so  many  risks  and  difficulties,  he 
landed  his  gallant  army,  and  won  a  glotious  grave  in  the  arms 
of  victory.  The  track  is  discerned  by  which  he  ascended  the 
heights  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  not  far  from  the  martello 
tower  that  stands  before  us,  is  a  monument  erected  by  a  grateful 
nation  on  the  very  spot  where  the  lamented  hero  fell  in  his  hour 
of  triumph.  From  Quebec  to  the  opposite  shore  is  about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  but  the  basin  just  below  is  five  times  as 
wide,  and  large  and  deep  enough  to  float  the  navy  of  England. 

We  now  glide  by  many  deep  coves  filled  with  timber,  des- 
tined soon  to  be  conveyed  to  Europe  by  the  vessels  which  lie  at 
anchor  below.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  is  the  suburbs  of  St. 
Rochy  the  commencement  of  the  lower  town.  It  is  built  on 
land  which  has  been  saved  from  the  water  by  the  erection  of 
docks.  A  little  further  down,  the  world-renowned  CitV  and  For- 
tress or  Quebec  stands  in  all  its  grandeur  before  you,  with  the 
standard  of  England  floating  from  its  citadel. 

Standing  on  the  heights  of  Cape  Diamond,  and  looking  across 
the  deep  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  is  now  about  1,400 
yards  wide,  (but  appears  to  be  not  half  that  distance  in  the 
clear,  bright  atmosphere,)  a  grand  scene  lies  spread  before  us. 

We  cannot  resist  giving  the  following  lucid  description  of  the 

CITY   OF    QUEBEC, 

As  furnished  by  Mr.  Buckingham,  in  his  interesting  work  on 
Canada : — The  situation  of  Quebec  is  highly  advantageous  in  a 
commercial  as  well  as  a  military  point  of  view,  and  its  appearance 
is  very  imposing  from  whatever  quarter  it  is  first  approached  ; 
though  at  a  distance  of  350  miles  up  from  the  sea,  the  magnifi- 
cent river  on  which  it  is  seated  is  three  miles  in  breadth  a  little 
below  the  town,  and  narrows  into  about  a  mile  in  breadth  im- 
mediately abreast  of  the  Citadel;  having  in  both  these  parts 
sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  largest  ships  in  the  world — a 
rise  and  fall  of  twenty  feet  in  its  tides,  and  space  enough  in  its 
capacious  basin,  between  Cape  Diamond  on  the  one  hand  and 
the  Isle  of  Orleans  on  the  other,  to  afford  room  and  anchorage 
for  a  thousand  sail  of  vessels  at  a  time,  sheltered  from  all  winds 
and  perfectly  secure  !  The  River  St.  Charles  has  its  junction 
with  the  St.  Lawrence  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  promontory  of 


'%' 


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33 


Caj)c  Diamond,  and  affords  a  favorable  spot  for  sliip-biiilding 
and  repairs,  as  well  as  an  excellent  winter  harbor  for  sh 
lying  up  dismantled. 

Quebec  lies  at  the  junction  of  the  St.  Charles  with  the  St. 
Lawrence,  the  ground-plan  of  it  being  almost  precisely  the 
same  as  that  of  New  York,  at  the  junction  of  ihe  East  and  Hud- 
son Rivers. 

THE  CITADEL  OF  QUEBEC 

Occupies  the  highest  point  of  Cape  Diamond,  being  elevated 
350  feet  above  the  river,  and  presenting  almost  perpendicular 
cliffs  towards  the  water. 

The  city  is  built  from  the  water's  edge  along  the  foot  of  these 
cliffs,  round  the  point  of  the  promontory,  and  ascending  upwards 
from  thence  to  the  very  borders  of  the  citadel  itself  It  is  divided 
into  the  Lower  and  Upper  town,  the  former  including  all  that  is 
below  the  ramparts,  or  fortified  lines,  the  latter  comprehending 
all  that  is  above  or  within  that  barrier. 

Besides  these  there  is  a  large  suburb,  separated  from  Quebec 
proper,  called  the  Suburb  of  St.  Roch,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
River  St.  Charles,  the  only  portion  of  the  whole  that  is  built  on 
level  ground.  This  portion  of  Quebec  is  building  up  rapidly 
and  presents  a  flourishing  appearance.  Several  of  the  public 
buildings  are  so  prominently  placed,  and  advantageously  seen, 
that  they  relieve  in  some  degree  the  general  monotony  of  the 
mass  of  ordinary  houses,  and  are  ornamental  to  the  town  ;  while 
the  spires  of  the  Churches,  the  dome  of  the  Parliament  House, 
and  other  elevated  points  rising  from  the  general  surface,  with 
their  tinned  roofs  glittering  in  the  sun,  give  a  liveliness  and 
variety  to  the  picture  presented  by  the  city  from  every  point  of 
view,  which  no  other  place  in  America,  and  indeed  few  places 
on  the  globe,  presents." 

Quebec  possesses  one  of  the  most  beautiful  promenades  im- 
aginable ;  it  occupies  the  site  of  the  Castle  of  St.  Louis,  of  which 
Champlain  laid  the  foimdation  on  6th  May,  1624.  The  French 
and  English  governors  resided  in  this  castle  till  1834,  when,  on 
the  23d  January,  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by  fire.  It  has  never 
been  rebuilt ;  but  Lord  Durham  had  the  site  cleared  of  the  ruins, 
and  the  whole  area  floored  with  wood,  and  converted  into  a 
beautiful  platform,  commanding  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
5 


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34 


panoramic  views  that  can  be  imagined.  Mr.  Buckingham  re- 
marks, that  while  he  wc .,  there,  there  were  not  less  than  300 
sail  of  merchant  ships  anchored  in  the  stream,  163  of  which 
arrived  in  two  successive  days,  and  at  least  100  more  lay  along 
the  side  of  the  wharfs  and  quays.  "  As  the  weather  was  beau- 
tifully fine,  and  the  coinitry  still  verdant  all  around,  the  sight 
of  so  many  ships,  seen  from  a  height  of  200  feet  above  the  river, 
with  the  fine  extent  of  country  opposite,  thickly  dotted  with  vil- 
lages and  hamlets  of  the  purest  white,  and  the  grandeur  of  the 
mountains  in  the  distance  fading  away  into  a  fainter  and 
fainter  blue,  still  scarcely  distinguishable  from  the  azure  sky  of 
the  far  horizon,  was  beautiful  and  magnificent  beyond  expres- 
sion." The  line  of  fortifications  enclosing  the  upper  town  and 
citadel  is  about  three  miles  in  extent.  All  communication  with 
the  upper  town  is  through  massive  gates  protected  by  heavy 
cannon.  The  western  part  of  the  city  being  deficient  in  natural 
strength,  so  fully  developed  in  the  rest  of  the  line,  has  been 
covered  by  a  combination  of  regular  works,  consisting  of  ram- 
parts, bastion,  ditch,  and  glacis.  In  order  to  strengthen  the 
defences  of  the  city  on  the  west,  four  martello  towers  were 
erected  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  They  extend  from  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  the  Coteau  St,  Genevieve,  at  irregu'ar  distances 
from  each  other,  of  from  5  to  600  yards,  and  abi>at  33  of  a 
mile  from  the  city. 

Their  construction  is  such  that  they  could  be  readily  demol- 
ished by  the  guns  from  the  walls,  should  such  a  step  be  rendered 
necessary  by  their  falling  into  the  hands  of  an  enemy,  but  on  the 
opposite  side  their  construction  is  exceedingly  solid,  and  the 
platform  on  the  top  is  furnished  with  guns  of  a  heavy  calibre. 
The  walk  around  the  ramparts  is  the  most  delightful  that  can 
be  imagined;  look  out  in  what  direction  yon  please,  the  eye 
commands  a  prospect  of  fifty  miles  in  extent,  replete  with  all  the 
elements  which  enter  into  the  formation  of  a  perfect  landscape. 
The  author  of  Hochelaga  thus  glowingly  describes  the  panoramic 
view  from  the  citadel : — "  Take  mountain  and  plain,  sinuous 
river  and  broad  tranquil  waters,  stately  ship  and  tiny  boat,  gen- 
tle hill  and  shady  valley,  bold  headland  and  rich  fruitful  fields, 
frowning  battlements  and  cheerful  villa,  glittering  dome  and 
rural  spire,  flowery  garden  and  sombre  forest — group  them  all 
into  the  choicest  picture  of  ideal  beauty  your  fancy  can  create, — 


I 
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■\ 

0 


"as*!-" 


I 


35 


arch  it  over  with  a  cloudless  sky,  light  it  up  with  a  radiant  sun, 
and,  lest  the  scene  should  be  too  dazzling,  hang  a  veil  of  light 
haze  over  all,  to  soften  the  light  and  perfect  the  repose — you  will 
then  have  seen  Q,uebec  on  this  September  morning." 

How  changed  the  scene  !  Winter  has  cast  its  frigid  mantle 
over  the  gay  landscajie.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  now  burdened 
with  immense  masses  of  floating  ice,  exhibiting  the  most  varied 
and  fantastic  appearance,  through  which  the  dark  leaden-colored 
waters  are  occasionally  seen.  The  hardy  kabitaus  keep  up  a 
coraraunicalion  with  the  opposite  shore,  and  carry  passengers 
and  light  goods  in  tlicir  canoes ;  landing  on  the  intervening 
islands  of  ice,  dragging  their  canoes  across  and  launching  them 
on  the  other  side.  Owing  to  the  immense  volume  of  water  and 
the  strength  of  the  current,  the  St.  Lawrence  is  seldom  bound  in 
icy  fetters.  However,  it  so  happens  that  about  every  five  years 
on  an  average  the  ice-islands  get  jammed  up  together,  some- 
times thrown  up  into  heaps  or  mounds  of  great  height,  opposite 
the  city,  and  the  frost  binding  them  forms  a  jtoiU  or  bridge,  on 
some  very  severe  night,  just  at  the  turn  of  the  tide.  Winter 
suddenly  casts  its  munades  over  the  mighty  stream,  and  an  im- 
mense sheet  of  glare  ice,  extending  for  many  miles,  coimects 
Quebec  with  the  opposite  shore.  W' hen  this  takes  place  it  is 
hailed  with  almost  frantic  delight  by  the  whole  population. 
The  glassy  surface  of  the  river  is  soon  covered  with  gay  parties 
in  sledges  and  carioles,  whisked  along  at  fearful  speed  by  the 
mettlesome  little  horses.  People  clad  in  fur  or  blanket  coats 
are  seen  in  all  directions,  sleighing,  skating,  and  ruiming.  But 
the  feature  in  the  picture  most  novel  and  interesting  to  the 
stranger  is  the  ice-boats.  A  boat  is  fixed  upon  a  triangular 
frame,  with  runners  like  those  of  skates,  at  each  corner ;  it  is 
propelled  by  sails,  sometimes  at  the  rate  of  20  knots  an  hour,  a 
pole  with  a  spike  at  the  end  acting  as  a  rudder.  Many  of  these 
crafts,  filled  with  a  jovial  crew  of  both  sexes,  are  sailing  on  the 
wind,  or  tacking  with  the  greatest  facility,  and  when  viewed 
from  the  high  banks,  impart  an  additional  vivacity  to  the  scene. 
The  costume  of  the  peasantry  of  Lower  Canada  is  siugular  and 
picturesque ;  it  consists  generally  of  a  gray  capote,  or  long 
coat  with  a  hood,  a  variegated  sash  around  the  waist,  a  red 
woollen  cap  on  the  head,  and  long  boots  reaching  to  the  thighs, 
or  moccasons.     This,    with   very   trifling  variation,   is  worn 


I 


w. 


i 


36 


throughout  the  year.  It  has  been  remarkpd  that  Quebec  has  an 
Italian  summer  and  a  Russian  winter.  From  its  position  it  is 
peculiarly  liable  to  extremes  of  cold  and  heat.  In  summer  time 
the  thermometer  often  indicates  100  degrees  in  the  shade,  while 
in  the  winter  the  mercury  has  been  known  to  descend  to  40  de- 
grees below  zero.  Yet  the  air  is  pure,  dry,  and  exhilarating, 
and  the  climate  exceedingly  healthy,  and  only  to  be  dreaded 
by  consumptives. 

Adieu  to  Quebec  !  the  Citadel  of  North  America  and  the 
Gibraltar  o(  the  Western  Continent — the  battle-ground  of  Wolfe 
rich  in  undying  memories !  We  arc  once  more  borne  along  on 
the  deep  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence^  and  sigh  as  the  fairy-like 
scene  fades  on  our  view.  We  are  passing  through  fleets  of  ves- 
sels which  have  come  laden  with  the  fabrics  of  Europe  to  take 
back  the  growth  of  the  primeval  forests.  The  craft  now  met 
with  are  principally  square-rigged  vessels  of  the  largest  size, 
employed  in  the  timber  trade.  From  1200  to  1500  arrive  an- 
nually at  the  port  of  Quebec.  After  passing  the  mouth  of  the 
St.  Charles  River,  a  road  may  be  traced  leading  through  the 
pretty  village  of  Bern/port,  and  amidst  farms  and  beautiful  or- 
chards to  the  celebrated  Falls  of  Montmorencl  At  a  distance, 
this  magnificent  cataract  appears  like  a  motionless  streak  of  snow 
upon  the  precipitous  bank  of  the  river ;  but  now  we  are  abreast 
of  it,  we  see  a  mighty  torrent  projected  with  incredible  velocity 
over  the  perpendicular  rock,  250  feet  into  the  St.  Lawrence, 
acquiring  a  fleecy  whiteness  as  it  falls,  while  the  sun  produces 
a  rainbow  at  its  base  in  fine  contrast  with  the  snowy  eff'ulgence 
of  the  falling  water.  This  cataract  is  the  greatest  natural 
curiosity  in  the  vicinity  of  Quebec.  It  is  about  100  feet  higher 
than  the  Niagara  Falls,  and  has  been  pronounced  by  many  to 
be  more  picturesque  and  beautiful.  On  a  hill  close  to  the  Falls 
is  a  houi,e  which  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  late  Dti/ce  of 
Kent — it  is  now  the  residence  of  Peter  Patterson,  Esq.,  proprie- 
tor of  extensive  saw  mills  in  the  vicinity.  The  lovely  Island 
of  Orleans,  nineteen  miles  in  length  and  about  five  in  breadth, 
here  divides  the  river  into  the  north  and  south  channels.  The 
upper  part  of  it  is  covered  with  noble  forest  trees,  while  culti- 
vated fields  and  beautiful  gardens  slope  down  to  the  water's 
edge  at  some  points,  and  bold  perpendicular  banks  are  presented 
at  others.    At  Ause  and  Maraud  an  enormous  vessel,  called  the 


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37 

Columbus,  was  launched  in  1824 — it  was  3700  tons  register, 
and  carried  four  masts.  The  next  year,  another  enormous  ship, 
the  Baron  Renfrew,  was  launched  here.  Both  were  built  of 
this  extraordinary  size  with  the  view  of  taking  them  to  Eng- 
land, and  saving  the  duty  on  the  lumber,  of  which  they  were 
composed.  Tliis  object  was  however  defeated,  as  it  was  decided 
that  a  voyage  was  first  to  be  made  out  of  England.  The  Co- 
lumbus returned  to  this  country,  and  was  wrecked  on  her  second 
voyage,  while  the  other  was  lost  on  the  coast  of  France,  on  her 
voyage  home. 

The  fSt.  Lawrence  here  rolls  through  a  channel  of  full  twenty 
miles  in  width,  and  the  northern  shore  increasing  in  elevation, 
and  covered  with  the  forest,  presents  a  wild  and  rugged  appear- 
ance. We  are  now  in  sight  of  Mount  Ton  and  Cape  Tovrmenl, 
bold  promontories  rising  to  the  height  of  2,000  feet.  Grosse 
Island,  thirty  miles  below  Quebec,  is  a  quarantine  station.  All 
vessels  from  sea  stop  here  as  they  pass  up.  It  is  provided  with 
a  Hospital  and  Catholic  Church.  Crane  Isle,  a  fertile  spot,  is 
passed,  and  Goose  Island,  owned  by  the  nuns,  and  cultivated  as 
a  farm  by  tenants.  And  now  we  see  the  Pillars,  a  group  of 
rocky  isles,  on  one  of  which  a  lighthouse  is  erected;  a  floating 
light  marks  the  intricate  and  dangerous  channel  of  the  Trav- 
erse. The  scenery  increases  in  interest,  the  vast  river  looking 
like  the  opening  to  the  ocean ;  the  lofty  shores  studded  with 
cheerful  residences,  while  hill  above  hill,  and  mountain  above 
mountain  rise  up  in  the  distance.  Near  St.  Paul's  Bay,  sixty- 
five  miles  from  Quebec,  is  the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  {Isle  of  Filberts,) 
which  received  its  name  from  Jaques  Cartier,  on  account  of  the 
profusion  of  these  delicious  nuts  which  he  observed  on  land- 
ing. The  bold,  round  peak  we  see  is  called  Goose  Cape,  and 
now  we  come  to  the  well  cultivated  settlement  of  Mai  Bay,  or 
Murray  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mai  Bay  River.  It  is  inhab- 
ited chiefly  by  the  descendants  of  the  Highlanders,  engaged  in 
Wolfe's  campaign,  who  settled  here  and  interinarried  with  the 
Canadians.  The  water  here  being  perfectly  salt,  many  fami- 
lies from  Quebec  visit  Mai  Bay  for  the  purpose  of  sea  bathing. 

Continuous  ranges  of  hills  can  now  be  seen  in  every  direction. 
The  grand  and  lofty  mountain  peaks  of  Cape  Eagle  and  Cape 
Salmon  here  come  into  view, — the  noble  river  is  whitened  with 
hundreds  of  ships,  and  variegated  with  islands ;  numerous  shoals 


Ml 


'■■■■■'■'  .rft*"-' 


•»i 


38 


of  white  porpoises  which  frequent  these  waters,  together  with 
scores  of  seals,  show  their  heads  above  the  water  in  all  directions, 
and  now  and  then  a  whale  scatters  the  smaller  fry  as  he  ap- 
proaches: altogether,  it  is  such  a  scene  as  cannot  be  met  with 
in  any  other  part  of  America,  and  probably  not  on  the  globe. 

The  Mississippi  is  but  a  low,  sluggish  creek,  compared  to  the 
majestic  St.  Lawrence.  The  Missouri  and  Ohio  are  but  tiny 
streams  compared  wiih  some  of  the  tributaries  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. The  Hudson  is  but  a  drop  in  the  bucket,  a  rill,  winding 
its  way  through  a  small  farm  or  meadow,  compared  with  that 
immense  flood  of  fresh  water  poured  into  the  Atlantic  through 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

We  are  now  140  miles  below  Quebec,  and  steering  for  the 
gap  in  the  stupendous  clifl^s  on  the  north  shore.  This  is  the 
mouth  of  the 

sague::ay, 

And,  although  a  mile  wide,  it  appears  narrow  when  com- 
pared with  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  at  this  point  is  considerably 
more  than  25  miles  in  width.  Yet  the  Saguenay  is  one  of  the 
most  important  tributaries  of  the  great  river;  its  volume  of 
water  is  immense,  and  the  depth  and  force  of  its  current  is  so 
sensibly  felt  at  its  confluence  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  that  for  a 
distance  of  several  miles  vessels  are  obliged  to  yield  to  its  influ- 
ence. It  IS  decidedly  the  largest  river  east  of  the  Alleghany 
Mountains,  the  St.  Lawrence  excepted.  From  the  inky  black- 
ness of  its  waters,  and  the  strange,  wild,  and  romantic  character 
of  the  scenery  along  its  banks,  it  may  be  considered  unquestion- 
ably the  most  remarkable  river  on  this  continent.  Whilst  we 
are  approaching  the  lofty  portals  of  this  mysterious  stream,  a 
brief  description  of  the  region  whence  it  comes  will  belter  enable 
the  reader  to  form  a  proper  estimate  of  it  as  a  wonder  of  nature. 

In  an  immense  valley,  forming  part  of  the  territory  belonging 
to  the  Hudson'' s  Bay  Company,  and  about  42  leagues  north 
from  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  the  beautiful  Lake  of  St.  John.  Its 
form  is  nearly  circular,  its  diameter  about  30  miles,  and  it  serves 
as  a  great  natural  reservoir,  into  which  twelve  rivers  and  many 
smaller  streams  discharge  their  waters,  ^riie  Saguenay  is  the 
only  outlet  by  which  this  vast  collection  of  water  fmds  its  way 
tu  tiie  St.  Lawrence.    Its  scenery  is  of  the  wildest  and  most 


fP 


ii; 


Sft' 


39 


^ 


Startling  description  through  its  whole  length,  which  is  about 
130  miles  from  Lake  St.  John  to  Tadoiisnc  Bay.  The  first  half 
of  its  course  lies  through  a  wilderness  of  hills  covered  with  the 
pine,  the  fir,  and  the  spruce,  and  numerous  and  formidable  rapids 
render  the  navigation  hazardous  except  to  experienced  canoe- 
men.  But  below  Chicoutimiy  which  is  68  miles  from  its  mouth, 
it  is  navigable  for  the  largest  vessels.  From  Ha!  Ha!  Bay, 
downwards,  the  passage  of  its  waters  is  through  solid  moun- 
tains of  sienitic  granite,  which  seem  to  have  been  split  asunder 
by  the  upheavings  of  an  earthquake,  thus  forming  an  immense 
canal  with  banks  of  perpendicular  rocks  towering  up  to  1500 
or  2000  feet  above  the  water,  which  is  about  150  fathoms  deep 
nearly  the  whole  distance.  Its  depth  at  different  points  has  never 
been  ascertained  ;  it  has  been  plumbed  with  a  line  of  330  fath- 
oms, or  1980  feet,  and  that  too  immediately  at  the  base  of  the 
cliff,  and  no  bottom  could  be  foimd.  The  power  of  language  is 
inadequate  to  describe  this  great  specimen  of  nature's  handi- 
work, nor  is  it  possible  to  convey  to  the  reader  any  conception 
of  it  by  comparison  with  any  other  river  scenery,  for  nothing 
like  it  can  be  found  in  North  America. 

"  I  can't  describe  it  though  so  much  it  strike, 
Nor  liken  it — I  never  saw  the  like." 

Mr.  Charles  Lanman,  a  talented  writer  and  artist,  who  lately 
made  a  tour  through  Lower  Canada,  thus  speaks  of  the  Sague- 
nay  : — "  Imagine  for  a  moment  an  extensive  country  of  rocky 
and  thinly  clad  motmtains,  suddenly  separated  by  some  convul- 
sion of  nature  so  as  to  form  an  almost  bottomless  chasm,  vary- 
ing from  one  to  two  miles  in  width ;  and  then  imagine  this 
chasm  suddenly  half  filled  with  water,  and  that  the  moss  of 
centuries  has  softened  the  rugged  walls  on  either  side,  and  you 
will  liave  a  pretty  accurate  idea  of  the  Saguenay."  .  .  .  "And, 
generally  speaking,  these  towering  bulwarks  are  not  content  to 
loom  ppr|)endicularly  into  the  air,  but  they  must  needs  bend 
over,  as  if  to  look  at  their  own  savage  features  reflected  in  the 
deep.  Ay,  and  that  word  dtej)  but  tells  the  simple  truth,  for 
the  flood  that  rolls  beneath  is  black  and  cold  as  the  boilomless 
pit. — Awful  beyond  expression,  1  can  assure  you,  is  the  .sensa- 
tion which  one  experiences  in  sailing  along  the  Snguenay,  to 
raise  his  eye  heavenward,  and  behold,  hanging  directly  over 


\    » 


i 


40 


his  Iiead,  a  mass  of  granite  apparently  ready  to  totter  and  fall, 
and  weighing  perhaps  a  million  of  tons.  Terrible  and  sjiblime, 
beyond  the  imagery  of  the  most  daring  poet,  are  these  cliffs; 
and  while  they  proclaim  the  omnipotent  power  of  God,  they  at 
the  same  time  whisper  into  the  ear  of  man  that  he  is  bnt  as  the 
moth  which  flutters  in  the  noontide  air.  And  yet  is  it  not 
enough  to  fill  the  heart  of  man  with  holy  pride  and  luibounded 
love,  to  remember  that  the  soul  within  him  shall  have  bnt  com- 
menced its  existence  when  all  the  mountains  in  the  world  shall 
have  been  consumed  as  a  scroll !" 

The  tourist,  whilst  ascending  the  Sagueimy  and  passing 
along  the  base  of  these  mountain  cliffs,  whose  rugged  summits 
seem  to  penetrate  the  blue  expanse  above,  is  oppressed  by  a 
sense  of  loneliness  and  desolation.  When  he  raises  his  eyes  to 
the  vast  height  of  the  broken  and  misshapen  masses  which 
overhang  and  threaten  momentarily  to  overwhelm  him,  the  story 
of  the  Titans  seems  to  be  realized,  and  it  appears  to  liim  as  if 
they  had  succeeded,  in  this  wild  and  primeval  portion  of  the 
globe,  in  heaping  Ossa  upon  Pelion,  and  Olympus  upon  Ossa. 
Even  when  the  bright  sim  lights  up  each  rocky  pinnacle  or  fir- 
crowned  height,  and  tips  with  brilliancy  the  snowy  foam-caps  of 
the  waves,  the  gigantic  and  everlasting  hills  produce  a  sen- 
sation of  awe, — imagine  then  what  must  be  the  feelings  of  the 
solitary  voyageur  in  his  bark  canoe,  when  overtaken  by  the 
storm,  as  he  floats  on  the  bosom  of  this  wild  river,  shut  in  on 
both  sides  by  precipitous  walls  of  granite,  cutting  off  all  hope  of 
escape.  A  sweeping  wind  rushes  suddenly  through  the  chasm, 
accompanied  by  heavy  pattering  rain ;  darkness  closing  in  above 
like  a  pall  turns  the  already  leaden-colored  waters  to  the  hue 
of  ink.  Heavens!  what  a  flash  darts  out  from  the  palpable 
darkness,  revealing  the  ghastly  and  spectral  forms  of  the  rugged 
cliffs — and  now  the  thunder  peals  forth  with  such  a  deafening 
crash  that  loose  boulders  and  masses  of  rock  come  leaping  and 
plunging  into  the  startled  wave.  Every  rock,  and  cavern,  and 
distant  mountain  takes  up  atid  repeats  the  wild  echoes. 

But  SCO  !  the  clouds  are  breaking  up, — the  storm  is  abating  ; 
the  roar  of  the  thunder  is  more  subdued,  and  is  dying  away  in 
the  distant  ranges  of  mountains, — the  seals  disport  Ihoinselvrt: 
in  the  sparkling  waves, — the  white  porpoises  in  shoals  ,:rc 
throwing  up  the  glittering  spray  in  their  uncouth  gambols, — 


i 


♦- 


ii'^ 


il 


41 


\ 


the  sun  once  more  tints  the  landscape  with  burnished  gold,— 
the  air,  purified  by  the  electric  current,  is  fresh  and  elastic, 
and  nature,  reassured,  seems  more  beautiful  and  joyous  than 
ever. 

We  hope  the  kind  reader  will  excuse  us  for  leaving  him  so 
long  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sagn€?iay,  whilst  we  have  been  hum- 
bly endeavoring  to  describe  the  general  features  of  this  singular 
river,  under  the  different  aspects  of  sunshine  and  gloom.     We 
will  now  resume  our  office  of  Pilot  and  Ciceione,  and  point  out 
the  various  objects  of  note  as  we  ascend  the  river  to  ChicotUimi. 
To  the  left  is  Tadousac  Bay,  which  is  one  of  the  king's  posts 
or  stations  for  trading  with  the  Indians.     It  comprises  several 
stores,  &.C.,  a  chapnl,  and  one  dwelling-house.    These  objects, 
situated  on  a  terrace  about  50  feet  above  the  water,  including  a 
flag-staff  and  some  cannon,  and  the  mountains  rising  up  abruptly 
in  the  rear,  form  a  very  pleasing  object  in  the  picture.  Here  are 
extensive  salmon  fisheries.     Looking  ahead,  we  have  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  the  river  in  perspective,  in  which  a  round  moun- 
tain peak,  called  Tele  dc  Boide,  is  a   prominent  feature.     The 
river  now  inclines  to  the  north  for  a  few  miles,  but  soon  turns 
again  to  the  west,  being  in  many  places  three  miles  in  width, 
and  its  depth  profound  until  we  arrive  at   the  bar,  60  miles 
from  its  mouth.     Nature,  in  her  wildest  freaks,  has  evidently 
been  fashioning  the  mountains  and  rocks  into  the  most  whim- 
sical and  fantastical  shapes,  and  objects  of  the  most  startling  de- 
scription now  follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession.     The  two 
Pbofiles  are  strong  outlines  on  the  rocks,  several  hundred  feet 
above  the  water,  and  strongly  resemble  the  human  face.     The 
SL  Louis  Islands,  a  rocky  group,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Mar- 
guerite River,  arc  passed.     And  soon  we  come  in  sight  of  two 
tremendous  masses  of  rock,  called    Eteiinity  Point  and  Cape 
Trinity,  rising  from  the  water's  edge  to  the  height  of  nearly 
20U()  foct,  and  so  abruptly  that  ships  of  the  largest  tonnage 
may  sail  close  enough  to  their  base  for  the  hand  to  touch  them. 
When  the  traveller  raises  his  eyes  to  their  vast  height,  and  then 
thinks  of  the  deep  abyss  of  waters   rolling  beneath  him,  he  is 
overcome  with  awe,  and  shrinks  as  he  becomes  convinced  of  his 
own  nothingness.     Trinity  fJapr  has  three  peaks  on  its  summit 
resembling  human  heads.     The  other  huge  pile  of  everlasting 
granite  is  well   designated   liy   tlic  name  of  Eternity  Point. 
6 


M  » ' 


•■■«llt;,.. 


42 


Sheltered  between  these  beetling  and  overhanging  cliffs  is  a  de- 
lightful recess  in  the  shore,  called  Trinity  Cove, — its  retired  and 
lonely  beauty  presents  a  striking  contrast  with  the  towering 
grandeur  of  the  rest  of  the  scene.  Further  still  we  come  to 
Statue  Point.  Here,  a  rock,  bearing  a  striking  similarity  to  the 
human  figure,  formerly  stood  in  a  niche  far  above  the  water. 
The  figure  has,  however,  toppled  from  its  base,  and  is  hid  in  the 
bosom  of  the  deep.  A  little  beyond  this.  Tableau  Rock  shoots 
up  perpendicularly  from  the  water's  edge  to  the  height  of 
several  hundred  feet.  We  are  now  passing  into  Grand  Bay,  or 
Ha-ha-bay^  as  it  is  known  by  the  habitans.  It  is  supposed  that 
it  gained  the  latter  appellation  from  the  first  voyagers,  who,  on 
suddenly  beholding  what  they  conceived  to  be  a  new  channel  for 
the  river,  exclaimed  "  Ha  !  ha  !"  It  forms  an  excellent  harbor, 
in  which  the  largest  ships  of  war  might  ride  with  safety,  and  is 
destined  no  doubt  to  be  the  principal  seat  of  trade  in  this  north- 
ern district.  The  Chicoutimi  channel,  a  continuation  of  the 
Saguenay,  here  enters  Grand  Bay  nearly  at  right  angles  on  the 
eastern  side,  pent  in  by  two  lowering  cliffs.  Here,  the  moun- 
tains have  been  burned  over  by  the  pioneers  who  have  attempted 
a  settlement  in  this  forbiddmg  locality.  Chicoutimi  is  a  king's 
post  and  trading  factory.  It  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the 
Chicoutimi  River  with  the  Saguenay,  and  consists  of  several 
large  buildings  used  as  stores;  one  of  Mr.  Price's  largest  saw- 
mills is  at  this  place.  A  venerable  church,  which  was  built  by 
the  Jesuit  Labrosse,  in  1727,  stands  in  the  centre  of  a  grassy 
lawn,  surrounded  by  shrubbery.  The  old  bell,  still  remaining 
in  the  tower  of  this  church,  is  covered  with  characters  or  hiero- 
glyphics which  the  most  learned  visitors  have  been  unable  to 
interpret.  Missionaries  come  every  year,  in  the  months  of  June 
and  July,  to  minister  to  the  spiritual  wants  of  the  isolated  in- 
habitants, and,  by  their  endeavors,  the  Indians  in  the  settlement 
have,  in  a  great  measure,  abandoned  the  use  of"  Fire-water," 
and  become  orderly  and  decent  compared  wilh  the  other  scat- 
tered remnants  of  their  race.  But  they  are  all  a  degraded  and  a 
down-trodden  people — their  bold  spirit  of  independence  has 
been  crushed  by  the  white  man,  and  the  lines  of  Dryden  can  no 
longer  apply  to  them — 

"Ai  free  as  nature  first  made  man, 

When  wild  in  woods  the  noble  savage  ran." 


^' 


II 


ir 


5f*^' 


.''*» 

■-^V"" 


43 


Beyond  this  point  civilization  ends,  and  the  savage  wilder- 
ness stretches  out  to  Hudson's  Bay,  bearing  no  signs  or  traces  of 
life  save  the  trail  of  the  Indian  hunter. 

Into  this  wild  region,  where  constant  impediments  to  our 
progress  present  themselves,  and  grievous  privations  have  to  be 
endured,  we  will  not  invite  the  reader.  The  curtain  therefore 
falls. — Our  romantic  trip  is  ended. 


i 


ii'iJit 


|i 


I 


TESTIMONIALS. 


Irving  House,  JVew  York,  M>v.  ls(.,  1849, 
Mr.  Wm.  Burr, — 

Dear  Sir, — I  have  witnessed  your  Moving  Mirror  of  the  Lakes,  the  Niagara, 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Saguenay,  now  on  exhibition  at  the  Minerva  Rooms, 
with  the  greatest  pleasure.  For  fifteen  years  I  have  navigated  tlicse  hikes  and 
rivers,  and  am  perfectly  familiar  with  all  the  objects, — tlie  Rapids,  Islands,  and 
Cities, — represented  on  your  painting.  I  award  to  your  beautiful  picture  the 
palm  of  excellence,  as  a  perfectly  truthful  and  correct  delineation  of  these 
•ources  of  navigation.  Yours  truly, 

THOS.  MAXWELL, 

Former  Commander  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steamer  Gildersleve,  since  of  the 
Steamer  Canada. 

.Vetr  York,  JVov.  7,  184!). 

Having  been  laboring  as  a  Missionary  of  the  Reformed  Dutch  Church  for 
three  years  past  among  the  Thousand  Islands  of  tlie  River  St.  Lawrence,  and 
being  familiary  acquainted  with  the  scenery  on  that  grand  and  majestic  stroani, 
it  is  with  pleasure  I  certify  to  the  accuracy  of  Mr.  Burr's  Mirror,  now  exhibiting 
at  40tj  Broadway,  New  York  City.  The  representation  of  Brockville  by  moon- 
light is  surpassingly  beautiful,  while  the  rapids,  fishing  vessels,  rafts,  with 
some  of  the  mhabited  islands  and  a  floating  population  in  their  unique  costume, 
is  true  and  exceedingly  picturesque. 

REV.  JEROME  A.  DAVENPORT. 


Mr.  William  Blrr,—  JSTew  York,  JVov.  VM,  1849. 

Dear  Sir, — Having  visited  your  "  Mirror  of  the  Lakes"  I  with  pleasure  tes- 
tify to  its  accuracy.  I  have  resided  in  the  Saguenay  country  many  years, 
(being  in  the  fur-trading  business  previous  to  its  occupancy  by  the  Hudson  Ray 
Company,)  and  next  tobeholdin|T  its  sublime  scenery,  is  a  visit  to  the  transfer  on 
your  canvas.  I  am  also  acquamted  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  in  fact  all  the 
objects  which  illustrate  and  enliven  your  "  Mirror;"  and  the  superb  scenery — 
unparalleled  in  the  world — which  is  so  faithfully  delineated  by  you,  should 
cause  your  "  Mirror  of  the  Lakes"  to  be  visited  by  nil.  As  fiir  as  I  am  ac- 
quainted, nothing  could  exceed  your  correct  description,  or  convey  a  more 
accurate  impression  of  this  vast  and  little  known  region. 

I  am,  sir,  your  ob't  servant, 

Johnson  street,  Brooklyn.  MOULTON  BULLOCK. 

To  Mr.  Bi'RR,  Proprietor  of  the  "Seven  Mile  Pi'norama  of  the  Lakes,  the 
Niagara,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  Rivers :" 

Sir, — Last  evening  I  availed  myself  of  the  first  leisure  hour  I  have  had  for  a 
long  time  to  visit  Ainory  Hall  aiKl  view  your  Panoriinmof  the  upper  Liiki-s  and 
the  romantic  St.  Lawrence.  The  former,  beautified  with  a  most  clianuing 
scenery,  the  latter  flowing  between  lofty  hills  wiioso  heads  arc  hid  in  the  clouds 
as  though  tluiHo  stern  sentinels  of  wood  and  water  were  holding  ct)nvorse  with 
the  Great  Spirit. 


iK 


w^ 


45 


I  liave  travelled  in  a  birchen  canoe  over  all  the  region  represented  on  your 
canvas,  know  almost  every  rock  and  tree,  and  I  am  much  pleased  in  being 
able  to  give  my  testimony  to  the  accuracy  of  your  delineations,  and  am  aston- 
ished to  see  how  Art  can  transfer  Nature. 

The  islands,  banks,  battle  grounds  and  noted  places  ;  the  grandeur  around 
Niagara  ;  the  mad  war  of  waters  in  tlie  whirlpool ;  the  bold  granite  hills,  the 
towns  and  cities,  seen  on  your  picture,  give  me  so  much  pleasure,  that  I  avail 
myself  of  the  first  opportunity  of  expressing  it  and  of  recommending  the  ex- 
hibition to  my  friends.  Should  they  see  it,  I  am  convinced  that  tliey  will  agree 
witli  me  in  saying  that  tlie  production  is  one  of  great  merit,  and,  with  me,  wish 
you  that  success  which  talent  so  laudably  employed,  deserves. 

To  me  your  painting  is  one  of  deep  interest,  as  it  brings  to  my  mind  the 
scene  of  my  early  life  ;  and  Colour^,  which  is  represented  in  the  picture,  places 
me  within  fourteen  miles  of  the  residence  of  my  aged  father. 

Wishing  you  abundant  success,  I  remain  your  friend, 

KAH-GE-GA-GAH-BOWH. 
(G.  CopwAY,)  Ojibway  Nation. 
Adams  House,  Boston,  June  18,  1850. 


OPINIONS  OF  THE   PRESS. 


T 


Bi!Rr's  Mirror  of  the  St.  Lawrknce. — Panoramas  have  been,  almost 
without  exception,  caricatures  as  jx)rtraits  of  places,  and  beneath  contempt  as 
works  of  art.  This  one  we  are  strongly  mclined  to  believe  exceedingly 
correct,  and  we  know  it  to  be  eminently  oeautiful  in  an  artistic  point  of  view. 
It  would  bo  superfluous  to  write  an  article  about  the  geographical  position  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  that  great  cutlet  of  the  Great  Western  Lakes,  the  varied 
interest  attaching  to  the  localities  it  waters  in  its  course,  and  the  cele'^rity  of  its 

Krincipal  points.  These  are  well  known  to  most  of  our  readers,  and  might 
e  to  all,  without  any  attempt  of  ours  to  play  the  schoolmaster.  We  have  only 
to  do  with  the  picture,  which  is,  aa  a  whole,  altogether  unrivalled — an  asser- 
tion that  we  make  witliout  any  fear  of  contradiction. 

For  the  convenience  of  tinroUing  and  managing  the  square  acres  of  canvas 
employed,  the  exhibition  is  divided  oy  tlie  fall  of  a  curtain  into  half  a  dozen 
parts,  giving  the  spectator  about  two  minutes'  breatliing  time  between  each. 
It  is  otherwise  continuous,  the  eye,  by  a  kind  of  pictorial  license,  gliding  from 
one  interesting  point  to  another,  and  jumping  over  the  intermediate  space. 
Without  this,  an  excursion  from  Buffalo  to  the  Snguenay  River  would  bo  un 
peu  tropfort.  We  have  varying  effects  of  weather,  season,  and  time  of  day; 
sunlight  and  moonlight,  storms  and  calms,  summer  and  winter.  So  we  have  tne 
varieties  of  vessels  peculiar  to  tlie  waters  we  pass  through,  from  the  balks  of 
timber  rnf^cd  down  stream  to  be  converted  into  shipping,  wp  to  tlie  shiiw  them- 
selves. Th  ^  nifbf,  canoes,  hoata,  and  steamers,  are  admirably  done ;  the  ships 
being  passable.  The  still  waters  throughout  are  charmingly  rendered,  and,  in 
many  pliicos,  the  troubled  stream  is  no  less  faithfully  represented.  The  utmost 
care  has  been  taken  to  give  tlie  exact  tints  of  the  water,  where  they  arc  con- 
sidered clmrncteristic  of  tlio  locality  ;  tlio  same  minute  attention  being  paid  also 
to  the  local  land  tints,  whereby  the  labor  of  the  whole  has  been  greatly  in- 
creased and  its  fuithfulnesH  proportionably  augmented.  In  tlie  rough  sketches 
that  we  saw  last  year,  we  remember  noticing  particularly  all  the  reqiiisito 
nienioniiulit,  made  by  the  artists  on  the  spot  and  at  the  moment.  Neither  must 
wp  forget  to  give  them  great  credit  for  tlio  carefulness  and  skill  they  have 
shown  in  tlieir  {lerspective ;  in  some  of  the  town-views  tliis  is  really  remarkable. 


fl  ^ 


-F'r 


46 


The  plunge  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  at  Niagara,  is  boldly  given,  and  effect- 
ive; and  the  same  may  be  said  of  the  Suspension  Bridge.  On  emerging  from 
the  Niagara  River,  the  pretty  little  village  of  that  name  pleased  us  much,  as  a 
bit  of  good,  quiet,  unpretending  Art — nothing  in  the  subject,  but  everything  in 
the  treatment.  Passing  Hamilton,  we  must  especially  commend  the  bit  of 
landscape  painting,  shown  in  the  highlands,  to  the  right  of  Sir  Allan  McNab's 
baronial  residence,  which  is  represented  in  the  back-ground.  The  view  of 
Toronto  is  excellent,  and  really  valuable,  inasmuch  as  it  shows  the  City  from 
the  Lake,  previously  to  the  last  disastrous  fire.  Port  Hope  Lighthouse  in  a 
storm  is  cleverly  done,  as  are  some  pretty  island  groups  between  that  place  and 
Kingston.  Kingston  itself  is  also  very  nicely  painted,  and  the  Thousand  Isles 
are  handled  witli  a  picturesque  boldness  and  spirit  worthy  of  their  romantic 
celebrity.  Brockville,  by  moonlight,  is  charming ;  and  Ogdensburgh,  seen  in 
persp'^ctive,  is  one  of  the  neatest  views  of  the  kind  in  the  whole  exhibition.  The 
various  rapids  between  Prescott  and  Montreal  are  treated  with  consununate 
skill ;  that  of  Lachine,  with  the  wreck  of  the  Steamer  Daiim,  being  a  perfect 
masterpiece  of  effect.  The  approach  to  Montreal,  and  that  portion  of  the  city 
containing  Bonsecours  Market,  with  Mount  Royal  in  the  background,  deserves 
special  commendation.  The  race  of  the  Steamers  Montreal,  Ijody  El/rin,  (Que- 
bec, and  John  Munn,  hereabouts,  is  also  very  spirited.  There  is  great  boldness 
as  well  as  skill  exhibited  in  the  evening  tints  and  brilliant  sky  under  which  we 
pass  Three  Rivers,  near  which  place,  if  we  remember  rightly,  an  enormous 
raft  is  a  curious  feature  in  the  scene.  But  we  must  hurry  on  to  Quebec,  seen 
by  rise  of  sun,  with  its  Citadel  in  strong  rays  of  light,  and  a  deep  shade  resting 
on  the  lower  town — all  very  artistic,  and  not  inferior  to  any  other  portion.  The 
Falls  of  Montinorenci  are  capitally  painted,  especially  the  glen  on  the  left 
of  thoni,  and  thrown  back.  The  high  mountain  of  St.  Ann  and  St.  Paul's 
Bay  should  also  be  commended. 

Thus,  hastily  descending,  we  are  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  River,  to 
which  the  last  roller  is  exclusively  devoted ;  pity  is  it  that  we  have  almost  ex- 
hausted our  vocabulary  of  praise,  for,  on  the  lienor  of  an  impartial  critic,  this 
Saguenay  is  worth  all  the  rest  jmt  together.  The  rocky  scenery  of  the  lofty 
mountains,  tliat  are  cut  tJirough  by  this  magnificent  stream,  are  given  with  an 
air  of  trutli  and  vigor  that  really  astonished  us ;  and  we  believe  much  the  same 
feeling  was  conveyed  to  the  minds  of  those  present  witli  us. 

But  we  must  not  allow  ourselves  to  hammer  out  this  eulogiuni  to  any  greater 
length.  Exactly  a  year  ago,  in  noticing  some  sketches  for  tliis  work,  we  ob- 
served, "  Mr.  Banvard  has  given  a  striking  proof  of  American  enterprise  ;  we 
trust  Mr.  Burr  will  do  as  much  for  American  taste  and  skill."  He  has  done  so 
signally,  and  we  trust  he  will  be  rewarded.  Whatever  success  he  may  meet 
in  New  \'ork,  we  can  insure  him  a  good  reception  in  London,  if  he  go  tliere. — 
^V.  Y.  Mbion. 

We  were  at  the  Minerva  Rooms  last  evening  to  see  Burr's  Movmg  Mirror, 
embracing  the  most  life-like  views  of  the  Niagara  River,  '\\a  Islands,  the  Falls, 
Whirlpool,  Suspension  Bridge,  Lake  Ontario,  the  Thousand  Islands,  the  St. 
Lawrence,  Montreal,  Quebec,  the  picturesque  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  closing 
witli  the  most  beautiful  and  amazingly  sublime  scenery  of  tlie  mighty  and  mys- 
terious Saguenay.  Having  travelled  some  years  since  over  nearly  the  entire 
route,  we  were  curious  to  see  how  far  memory  had  proved  true  to  by-gone  days, 
and  we  are  compelled  to  admit,  tliat  we  more  than  once  forgot  our  identity  in 
the  marviiUous  and  faithful  transcript  which  passed  like  magic  before  our  be- 
wildered gaze.  The  artistic  merit  of  this  noble  triumph  of  American  skill,  is 
undoubtedly  superior  to  any  otiier  painting  of  the  kind  in  this  country.  It  being 
an  opaque  picture,  it  is  admirably  adopted  to  the  taste  of  the  people.  Wo 
recognized  many  striking  scenes,  with  the  utmost  distinctness.  We  stood 
some  ten  years  ago  on  the  summit  of  Brock's  Monument,  on  a  cold,  bleak  day, 
and  gazed  over  the  battle-field  and  snow-covered  hills,  that  Inst  their  outline  in 
tlie  distant  clouds,  and  distant  waters — we  stood  again  last  night,  in  fancy,  on 
the  same  spot,  witli  emotions  strangely  youthful.    The  wliole  scene  is  enlivened 


4> 


wf^^-itf* 


f'.i 


-J*-— - — 


47 


■A> 


by  beautiful  music,  executed  by  the  celebrated  Professor  Van  Der  Wcyde,  on 
one  of  T.  Gilbert  &  Go's.  ;Eolian  pianos,  which  seems  peculiarly  adapted  to 
awaken  the  soul  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  sublime  and  beautiful.  The  stupen- 
dous pcaka  of  the  Saguenay  are  a  fitting  addenda  to  the  picture,  and  elicit  the 
most  profound  admiration  from  all  who  have  witnessed  them ;  indeed,  they  sur- 
pass all  wo  ever  dreamed  of,  in  the  wr  the  sublime  and  the  grand.  More 
2[eography  of  tlie  frontier  may  be  lea.ned  at  the  Minerva  Rooms  in  a  couple  of 
hours,  thai)  could  be  obtained  elsewhere  in  the  same  number  of  montlis. — jY. 
Y.  Sun. 

The  Saguenav. — We  paid  a  visit  yesterday  to  Burr's  Mirror,  and  were 
agreeably  surprised  at  its  accuracy  in  detail,  and  its  fine  effect  as  a  whole.  The 
picture  of  the  wonderful  Saguenay — the  most  astonishing  river  on  the  globe 
— stealing  along  the  eternal  solitucle  of  its  fathomless  gulf,  between  banks  that 
tower  far  abovtj  the  clouds — is  worth  a  hundred  times  the  price  of  admission. 

The  proprietor  selected  objects  of  curiosity  and  scenes  of  the  most  thrilling 
interest,  worthy  of  his  skill  in  artistic  combination.  Vales  on  vales  of  Emerald, 
mountains  on  mountains  of  Amethyst,  and  streams  on  streams  of  Silver,  are 
not  huddled  confusedly  together,  but  stretched  out  into  a  comprehensive  and 
grand  jiicture.  The  Saguenay  rolls  along  like  a  dream  through  her  hushed 
bed  to  the  gulf.  The  observer  will  see  that  all  these  lakes  and  rivers  form  a 
perfect  chain  of  water  communication.  The  "Thousand  Islands"  force  us 
into  tlio  belief  that  the  Book  of  Nature  has  but  one  page,  and  that  is  beauty, 
wafted  to  us  from  some  enchanted  land  of  loveliness  and  light.  The  great  seg- 
ment of  the  circle  of  the  world  is  seen  in  tliis  picture.  Yesterday  afternoon 
crowds  were  seen  leaving  the  door,  as  all  tlic  seats  were  secured  at  an  early 
hour.    Persons  would  do  well  to  procure  tickets  in  advance. — Tribune. 

"  Burr's  Movi.\o  Mirror  of  the  Great  Lakes,  Niagara,  St.  Lawrence,  and 
Saguenay  Rivers." — Wo  took  occasion  a  few  evenings  since  to  visit  this  Mov- 
ing Mirror,  now  on  exhibition  at  the  Minerva  Rooms,  40G  Broadway,  and  were 
amply  repaid  for  our  trouble. 

Having  passed  over  nearly  the  whole  of  the  route  described,  some  four  years 
since,  we  were  prepared  to  discover  what  justice  the  artists  liad  done  to  their 
subject,  and  what  if  any  errors  they  had  committed  to  canvas.  And  (after  an 
evening's  inspection,)  we  cheerfully  accord  our  testimony  to  its  fidelity,  for  the 
color  of  the  waters,  the  face  of  tlio  country,  the  tints  of  the  floweru,  the  hues  of 
tlie  foliage  and  shrubbery,  the  exact  condition  of  the  public  buildings  and 
private  residences,  are  all  so  true  to  nature  tliat  we  almost  imagined  tnat  we 
were  taking  our  tour  over  again. 

Nobly  have  the  artists  aciiuitted  themselves  in  bringing  out  a  work  of  so 
much  merit,  and  one  that  will,  we  tliink,  bo  appreciated  by  a  discerning  public. 

We  say  to  one  and  all  of  our  readers,  that  Mr.  Burr,  the  proprietor,  richly 
merits  your  j)atronage,  and  those  of  you  who  have  not  as  yet  seen  this  great 
work  of  art,  should  by  all  means  take  tJie  earliest  opportunity  of  visiting  the 
Minerva  Rooms. — Merchant's  Ledger. 

Burr's  Moving  Mirror. — In  these  days  of  Panorama  mania,  of  course 
there  are  daubs  exhibited,  dignified  with  the  title  of  "  panorama,"  which  are 
but  frauds  upon  the  public,  and  are  calculated  to  affect  seriously  the  interests 
of  those  whose  exhibitions  are  really  meritorious.  As  it  is  the  duty  of  the  press 
to  expose  these  unpositions,  so  it  is  tlieir  duty  to  direct  public  attention  to  ex- 
hibitions which  are  deserving  of  patronage ;  and  we  now  refer  particularly  to 
what  is  termed  "  Burr's  Moving  Mirror"  and  i)ronounce  it,  in  all  respects, 
highly  deserving  patronage,  and  wo  trust  that  no  one  will  fail  to  visit  it,  be- 
cause it  will  not  only  uflord  considerable  gratification,  from  the  views  repre- 
sented, but  viewing  it  as  a  work  of  art,  tJiat  feeling  cannot  fail  to  be  enhanced. 
The  trip  from  Buffalo  to  the  Saguenay  River  exliibits  views  of  Niagara,  the 
Horse  Shoe  and  Ani«(icjan  F|ill,  the  Sus|H>nsion  Bridge;  and  emerging  from 
tlie  Niagara  River,  yo'i  l)aps  Uamiito'i, 'oWain  a  Ciif  siglil  of  Toronto ;  of  Port 


1V' 


m^ 


i'. 


L^r*' 


48 


Hope  Light-house  in  a  storm — and  the  group  of  islands  between  it  and  King- 
ston. You  then  pass  in  succession,  Kingston,  Brockville,  (a  beautiful  moon- 
light view)  Ogdensburgh— 'the  various  rapids  between  Prescott  and  Montreal, 
of  which  city,  the  painting  is  peculiarly  spirited,  and  the  Three  Rivers,  Yon 
then  pass  to  Quebec,  seen  at  sunrise ;  the  Falls  of  Montmorency ;  tlience 
descend  to  the  Saguenay  River,  the  representation  of  which  forms  one  part  of 
the  exhibition,  and  in  all  respects  is  one  of  the  grandest  in  point  of  scenery  we 
have  ever  witnessed,  and  is  delineated  in  a  masterly  style.  But  it  is  quite  im- 
possible by  any  description  to  afford  an  idea  of  the  attractions  of  the  exhibition, 
and  we  can  only  inform  those  who  fail  to  visit  this  panorama,  that  they  lose  a 
very  great  treat.'-£vemng'  JiSnor, 


"^A 


^mi  ■ 


M'"'    i*'* 


